K301 cam removal question

[J-Mech]

Brian, your crankpin and rod look good. I'd still have them checked.

[OldCubby]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I never tried doing it that way. I always take them out before the cam, and put them in after the cam. Might be easier with the lifters out of the hole. I'll try it that way next time.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but for the K301 there should be clearance between the valves and lifters. So, in essense, you put the piston at top dead center there should be no pressure on the valves....I think. I just did this last month...you'd think I'd know or remember. But, I also, took the crank and cam out and left the lifters in the block when I took it to the machine shop. They were going to need the valves anyways to grind and lap.....

[J-Mech]

That's correct yes. That's what I said in post #3.

[dvogtvpe]

after grinding the valves and seats obviously the valve drops lower so when you put it together you have to back the lifts adjusters down a bit to get the cam back in. I think you'll be surprised Jon how much easier it is doing it that way

[bocephus1991]

Cam came out easy, got the governor removed with no problems. Only problem like said in the other post is the tappets fell out and don't know which hole they go in now.

[dvogtvpe]

if you really want to know put them back in and put the cam in then check your valve lash. then pull the cam back out, flip the lifters in the bores. put the cam back in and check lash again. see if the lash is best in a particular bore. not fool proof but you got a 50-50 chance

[austin8214]

I've had to take a cam out to get the valves in. I'm like Don valves on first to go in last to come out. Try sticking a set of double valves springs in with the lifters in the way.

[bocephus1991]

I will give a try don , gonna go down in a bit and try to drive the bearing out so I can take the block by the machine shop fri after work. Thanks for your help!