Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Everyone, we have 2 new Sponsors!
Machtech Direct and P&K Cub Cadet (See Links above)


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)
Reload this Page Best method for removing set screws in PTO on Cub 102 ??
Register FAQ Calendar

Notices

Reply
Page 2 of 2 1 2
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 05-14-2016, 09:38 PM
johncub7172's Avatar
johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,103
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by prlwpod View Post
Greetings- Before I do any irreparable damage to the PTO, what is the recommended method for removing the three (or more) set screws. I've thus far blasted them with brake parts cleaner followed by 120 PSI through the air nozzle just to remove the excess debris. Then sprayed and soaked each one with Kroil, and that's where I've stopped. My concern is that if the hex is slighly worn or stripped , I don't want to make it any worse. What method/s do you use to extract the hex head screws? Thanks, Paul in Providence
I too, work as a machinist to a large degree. The most important part is having the set screw head super clean. Use a straight pick to dig out the crud, following all advice and tips shared to assure its clean so your wrench as the best chance for bite as it can. In many cases, this is how the screw could get rounded out.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-15-2016, 09:37 AM
prlwpod prlwpod is offline
New Member
  
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: RI
Posts: 28
Default A .22 caliber bore brush!
What a fantastic idea! I've been using a similar tool for years from my other "hobby", vacuum tube electronics. It's a hand held cylindrical brush made for cleaning the contacts of a vacuum tube socket , however it's not nearly as robust as a bore brush. I wish that someone still made an assortment of these style brushes. Just for the record, what is the size and thread pitch of these little set screws? Thank you, Paul
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-15-2016, 12:12 PM
SLS327 SLS327 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 217
Default
1/4 - 20 the inner three need to have a point, the outer three need to be flat, I was just at the hardware store yesterday.
__________________
Steven
__________________________________________
127 NF, spring assist, 36" IH Danco BB-36 snowthrower, 42" mower deck. CW-36 snowthrower, 42" NF blade. QA42A blower, 126,127,149,1720.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-15-2016, 02:08 PM
RLause's Avatar
RLause RLause is online now
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toledo, Ohio
Posts: 593
Default
Use a bottom tap or an old tap with the lead ground off to clean the threads above the screws.
__________________
Richard

1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-15-2016, 02:39 PM
Alvy's Avatar
Alvy Alvy is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Winter Haven, FL
Posts: 3,567
Default
Saw a video of a guy who got the hub red hot where the screws were and said they would drill much easier after that. Not sure if the temper gets taken out of them but I was going to try it one time as drilling them is beyond words as most know.

Jeff what do you think of that? I'm thinking the hub might warp with such heat from a Rose bud but maybe not.
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 05-15-2016, 02:49 PM
Nailhead Nailhead is offline
Member
  
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 61
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven s View Post
1/4 - 20 the inner three need to have a point, the outer three need to be flat, I was just at the hardware store yesterday.
That's interesting-- the set I got loose had the pointed one on top. I didn't remove the lower one, so I don't know what it looks like.
__________________
1965 122 with no bells or whistles, other than a spiffy restored 42" CI deck.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-15-2016, 07:25 PM
Jeff in Pa's Avatar
Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
Site Sponsor
  
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Zionsville, PA
Posts: 3,171
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Saw a video of a guy who got the hub red hot where the screws were and said they would drill much easier after that. Not sure if the temper gets taken out of them but I was going to try it one time as drilling them is beyond words as most know.

Jeff what do you think of that? I'm thinking the hub might warp with such heat from a Rose bud but maybe not.
Localized heating at the set screw location would probably be fine. My main concern would be trying to face it afterwards because if it cools too fast, it becomes hard. ( difficult to machine)
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:35 AM
Berwil's Avatar
Berwil Berwil is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 1,311
Default
I'm not sure if this is applicable, but I have spot annealed case hardened shaft to drill through it. I took a scrap piece of round stock the diameter of the desired hole, heated the end to red hot and held it to the shaft where I wanted the hole. Maybe you could try the same thing with the set screw and a piece of 3/16" rod. Heat the rod, stick it in the end of the set screw and let it transfer it's heat and anneal the screw. With all the mass around the screw it may take a few heating attempts to get the screw warm enough to anneal, but it should keep you from overheating the rest of the pto.

Bill
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-16-2016, 02:12 AM
Nailhead Nailhead is offline
Member
  
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 61
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berwil View Post
I'm not sure if this is applicable, but I have spot annealed case hardened shaft to drill through it. I took a scrap piece of round stock the diameter of the desired hole, heated the end to red hot and held it to the shaft where I wanted the hole. Maybe you could try the same thing with the set screw and a piece of 3/16" rod. Heat the rod, stick it in the end of the set screw and let it transfer it's heat and anneal the screw. With all the mass around the screw it may take a few heating attempts to get the screw warm enough to anneal, but it should keep you from overheating the rest of the pto.

Bill
It's worth a try, maybe it'll save this project.
__________________
1965 122 with no bells or whistles, other than a spiffy restored 42" CI deck.
Reply With Quote
Reply
Page 2 of 2 1 2

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:49 PM.

www.onlycubcadets.net - Archive - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.