Rebuild tidbits and removing camshaft

[bocephus1991]

First the cam pin, no I don't see and reason to drive it out long as it looks good and isn't worn or bent. The front bearing take the oil seal out the drive it out. I started using a brass punch and had some chip off , so I switched to a steel punch just take your time and be careful not to damage the bearing. Only drive on the outer bearing race or you will damage the bearing. Oh your cam pin remember it goes back in as it came out. The shaft is tapered and only goes in one way. Good luck I just got mine back together they bored it 20 over crank 10 under and planed the head ( they said it wasn't flat) new valves .

[rickx]

Originally Posted by NCDiesel

....Also - I disassembled the governor tonight too. Any reason to drive out the pin the governor gear rotates on? I don't see the need......

I don't see the need either! I didn't remove the governor gear pin when I rebuilt my K321.
rick

[NCDiesel]

Got that last main bearing out. Just kept working at it, tapping all away around the outer circumference as best I could manage. Once the bearing starts to move, its easier to get the drift on it.


Everything is going to the machine shop later this week!

[NCDiesel]

Got everything together, got it in a nice wooden box, and took the engine to the machine shop. Now I just have to wait "several" weeks. I could tell from all the engines laying around "several" meant more like 9, rather than 3 or 4. I've never had to wait this long for any engine. But I could see they were covered up. Has there been an epidemic of engine rebuilds? Related to Ebola maybe?

[austin8214]

Originally Posted by NCDiesel

Got everything together, got it in a nice wooden box, and took the engine to the machine shop. Now I just have to wait "several" weeks. I could tell from all the engines laying around "several" meant more like 9, rather than 3 or 4. I've never had to wait this long for any engine. But I could see they were covered up. Has there been an epidemic of engine rebuilds? Related to Ebola maybe?

The machine shop I use is always two day turnaround. Sounds like the guy you took yours to needs some help.

[bocephus1991]

Mine was at the machine shop for about a month. All sizes of engines and heads were in there.

[NCDiesel]

Originally Posted by NCDiesel

Got everything together, got it in a nice wooden box, and took the engine to the machine shop. Now I just have to wait "several" weeks. I could tell from all the engines laying around "several" meant more like 9, rather than 3 or 4. I've never had to wait this long for any engine. But I could see they were covered up. Has there been an epidemic of engine rebuilds? Related to Ebola maybe?

Just picked up the engine Wednesday - 1 month to the day I believe - so not so bad. The bore needed to be .010" over and the exhaust valve needed to be replaced. The crank out-of-round was slight. So rather than grind down a whole .010", he ground off the out-of-round and "resized" the connecting rod and re-honed it. I replaced both valves and had the valve seats cut. Head and block were decked. They did all the other usual stuff too - honed the engine, cleaned it(along with my shroud pieces, brackets, etc), etc. All the machining work and a full Sten kit (without connecting rod) for $285. I can deal with that.

I guess I'll be putting an engine together over the next few weeks!

By the way - I got a compliment on the engine. He said he has done dozens of these engines and mine was one of the the nicest, least worn original engine he has ever seen.

I'll let you know how it goes...

[bocephus1991]

Sounds good to me! Think your set now. That's a very good price for the kit and machine work. They aren't that hard to put together be sure to to put the oil hole on the rod to the cam side. Put the rod for the cam in the right way, because its tapered and made to go in one way. Get your end play set on the cam and crank. Check your ring end gap, piston shirt clearance. Install your rings per the instructions and offset the ends. I put mine together in a day. Pretty strait forward. Take your time and you'll do fine!

[NCDiesel]

Started reassembly today, and ran across a couple of things I wanted to bounce off you folks. This is a K301(Serial C052589, SPEC 4759B) from a '67 model 123:

The cross shaft arm wiggles (see video). So I set the rivet tighter with a pin punch and that cured it. I assume this was a reasonable repair or is that rivet brittle and I might want to reconsider and replace it?

Cross shaft governor bushing nut does not have a washer - right? I don't recall one, don't see one in the diagrams but it doesn't "seem" right to shoulder right against the block.

Governor gear has a lot of back and forth on its pin. The stop pin does stop it, but seems excessive. I assume the direction of rotation of the camshaft gear keeps it up against the thrust washer and that outward travel I am seeing toward the cross shaft arm won't happen "in real life". Again, I don't recall removing anything that would help keep the governor gear from traveling along its shaft all the way out against the stop pin.

Turn your volume down before you click - I was listening to the radio (-:

http://www.atis.net/~yostsw/cross-shaft.MOV

[dvogtvpe]

replace the cross shaft
no washer
it will have allot of play till you put the carb on and adjust the governor to the carb