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#11
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If there is anybody who can repair that shaft, Jeff is the man to do it! Best to make sure that you have a list of everything you need.... Input shaft repair, pressure plates, etc...etc... And get it all done in one fell swoop and cheaper shipping. I agree with do it once and do it right!
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#12
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I'll get started splitting the tractor today. I'm hoping I don't need any special tools to deal with removing the Reduction Drive Input Shaft, bearings etc. I'm a little slower than I was 30 years ago so be patient with me
Picture coming soon. Denny |
#13
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That's sure a fine looking little Cub there Denny.
You will be glad you did it right once the job is done. Download the service manual for that model. Everything you need to know for these repairs is in there and will answer a lot of questions for you along the way. |
#14
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finsruskw, thanks. I have downloaded the service manual and refer to it frequently and I'm still dangerous.
Here's my clutch assembly: Your professional diagnosis's are appreciated. I see a broken load spring, the bearing moves freely but a bit sloppy. Denny |
#15
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Jeff in PA, I'm thinking since you have a lot of fans here, and I don't have a proper jig, maybe I might send you (2,800 miles away) the entire clutch assembly for repair and reassembly. (See pictures) I also see I can get a new input shaft for $90 plus shipping so would the repair be saving me much? I ask myself... How much am I willing to spend to cure a headache? Hmmmmm! Hey, I'm helping the economy. Right?
Denny |
#16
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Thanks for the kind words
Quote:
I don't have the jig to do the clutch rebuild. I make the parts and perform the welding / fabricating / machining necessary to manufacture the parts or services. The repair on the input would be $50 ( $58 shipped) $90 for a new one is a great deal. Jeff |
#17
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Thanks Jeff, I'll dismantle it myself and see how much damage the shaft has. It doesn't look too bad assembled. Your thoughts?
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#18
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Be extremely careful during disassembly as the spring has a lot of stored up energy. It looks like both springs are broken in the picture.
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#19
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I used the lever and rope method in a vice to depress the spring enough to get the pin out. Only problem was I should have placed some smooth metal in the jaws. Released it slowly and when the jaws finally let go it I jumped about as high as the assembly did. I'm still working on my degree at the School of Hard Knocks. No band aids required. The clutch disc and plates look pretty good to me. Couldn't feel any wear ridges on the disc. The shaft has quite a bit of spring wear on it. Probably best to replace the teaser and bearing now rather later. I'll let you experts decide whats best.
Thanks for your help. Denny |
#20
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Yup, replace the d/shaft and reface the plates. and I'd also replace the bushing in the 3 pin driver. If the rear coupler is loose and wobbly, get a new one from Jeff to match the d/shaft and new input shaft.
Never had an issue using a vise and a pair of aluminum jaw plates to take a clutch apart or back together. Couple of hard wood blocks would suffice as well to protect the shaft. I'd reuse that disc as it looks good and has the original metal center. Just clean it up good and try to get all the oil and contaminants cleaned off. Might as well get a new input shaft seal while you are at it and inspect the brakes as well and give everything a bath, you may just find other areas that need attention such as the brake adjustment parts. I just went through all that on a 126 am re-hab-ing for a friend. Same Cub as yours except a 12 HP Have fun!! |
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