LT1018 not starting, just turns and turns - Page 2

cubby102 · #11 08-16-2012, 09:22 AM

didnt briggs have a problem with the valve seat popping out as well? i know i've had a couple 8 horse flatheads and two twin flatheads that had that problem....i dunno if the ohv was the same or not

dinosaur12 · #12 08-16-2012, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubby102

didnt briggs have a problem with the valve seat popping out as well? i know i've had a couple 8 horse flatheads and two twin flatheads that had that problem....i dunno if the ohv was the same or not

You got it! Valve seat popped out. Here are some pics. Going to look around for cylinder head assembly. Anyone know of a place to find one....cheaper the better.

Pics for your enjoyment. Sorry for the bad lighting. Again thanks for all your inputs.

Vince_o · #13 08-16-2012, 12:57 PM

Looks like it over heated BIG TIME!

Be carefull not to bend a push rod when putting it back togeather. Have your friend help you if need be.

dinosaur12 · #14 08-16-2012, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince_o

Looks like it over heated BIG TIME!

Be carefull not to bend a push rod when putting it back togeather. Have your friend help you if need be.

Could you explain why it looks over heated. Want to know what to look for.

Also, anyone know what the torque specs are for the head bolts?

Sam Mac · #15 08-16-2012, 08:18 PM

Looks like some grass buildup around the cooling fins. That will over heat the head and then the valve seat will fall out. You can probably have that head fixed by a good engine shop.

dinosaur12 · #16 08-16-2012, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Looks like some grass buildup around the cooling fins. That will over heat the head and then the valve seat will fall out. You can probably have that head fixed by a good engine shop.

Yes, there was/is some grass buildup on the fins. Going to clean it off once I get everything back together and she fires up. Dont wanna risk putting some grass in the cylinder right now.

Not ganna have the head repaired. Just ordered a new one for $120. The head includes everything; springs, valves, rockers, and so on all ready to bolt on.

Will take it 2 weeks to get here......neighbors are ganna love me. Will take some pics when the head gets here.

Vince_o · #17 08-16-2012, 08:59 PM

I would say blocked cooling fins. Now that said, the rings will wear out fast on an over heated eng, and the bore wont. Thats why I was wondering what the leak down showed on the rings, but seeing the pics, LOL I guess that answers my question.

Ive done them on engs with mice nests in them, ping the seat back in, then recut the seat for the valve. I had pics but they are gone when my comp crashed. Id post a link to another site where they are, but then someone here would get mad at me. Im just thankfull he still lets me post!

dinosaur12 · #18 08-19-2012, 07:31 PM

Anyone know what the torque specs are for the head bolts?

SureGrip · #19 05-19-2013, 11:37 AM

Hi there....first off, I'm sorry for the following wall-of-text.

I found this forum while trying to research an issue with my LT1018 which suddenly stopped pumping fuel to the carb. I found the information to be very informative and well laid out, so I joined up.

I began searching for help on the 18.5 V-twin motor, which is how I found this thread...I've since realized that my LT1018 has a 22hp B&S V-twin, but the stickers on the cover call it out as a 18.5 ELS500.

This goes a LONG ways towards explaining why I had a hard time finding any information or parts for it.

I replaced the pump, (pro-tip: it's the same darn pump used on like 8 brands, and ranges in price from $22 to $61 depending on which brand engine you search for.) and nothing changed...so, based on the info in here, I dug deeper to see what could be keeping the pump from running.

I pulled the rocker cover off and found the the exhaust valve (top) had a lot of play between the valve and rocker tip. I manually pushed the valve in a couple of times and it moved freely and seated to the point where the gap was no longer present.

I cranked the motor with the starter, and no dice. I pulled the cover off the head, and found that the push rod had dropped off the rocker from the exhaust valve. I popped it back into place, and was able to rotate the engine by hand.

I now suspect that the valve seat may be damaged, because it appears that the valve is seating MUCH deeper than it should be. I followed the procedures to set valve lash, and found that I had to back the rocker off a LOT to get the proper gap for the top valve. The other head was only slightly out of adjustment, and the intake valve on this head was pretty close too, so I suspect something is up with this valve. The motor sill turns freely by hand, and the valves actuate properly, but I an getting a dull thud when cranking with the starter. (still no fuel from the outlet side of the pump).

I am planning on pulling the head to see what is going on...I anticipate finding something like the pictures at the top of this page, and putting a new head on it.

The impulse tube going from the rocker cover does not show any signs of cracks, so I can't think of any other reason why the pump would not work.

Am I missing something? Thank you in advance.

SureGrip · #20 05-19-2013, 06:07 PM

Well, inspection of the head shows no damage to the valve seat. A bit of blacky carbon build up, but that's it. The valves are seated fully, push rods are straight and true.

I did REALLY examine the impulse tube and I did find a small crack in it.

So, right now, I need to throw a new set of gaskets on it, and bolt it back up, and replace the tube. I hate to say it, but I'll be pretty pissed at myself if this turns out to all stem from a cracked $5 part.

BTW - Sears and RepairClinic.com have the head assembly for sale for $86, which is the best I've seen.

*crosses fingers*