Hitch recommendations for 149

[302wSBF]

Originally Posted by 302wSBF

Shout out to DSarow for emailing me pics of his hitch!

Using the ball in the drawbar left me some bad results. It worked, but the trailer was crazy low and I had very little turning radius before the trailer was rubbing on my tires. Not good.

Unfortunately one of these cheapo universal three point hitches would probably work best for me but they're designed for the universal consumer grade home depot stuff.

If I had welding capabilities I would consider buying this and welding on tabs to bolt through the frame where the lift arm goes.

The hunt continues.

So I ended up buying the universal 3pt hitch contraption I posted. $25 or so. Not bad.

Bottom point bolts through drawbar just fine. The upper "arms" need to mount to something. I plan on putting an axle (1/2"?) through the rear lift arm holes. Put a sleeve of some sort (1/2" ID steel tubing, pipe, or squarestock) over it, then welding the upper point "arms" to it.

If anyone can think of a better solution please let me know. Preferably no weld!

[ironman]

Maybe heat the ends of the arms, bend them straight and pass your "axle" rod thru the existing holes.
Eleminates welding??

[ol'George]

Just be careful when attaching anything to any tractor that is putting the hitch point above the centerline of the axle.
If the tongue weight is is heavy and the tractor hooks up traction, y'all going for
a ride into the sky like a bucking horse would give you.

[302wSBF]

Originally Posted by ironman

Maybe heat the ends of the arms, bend them straight and pass your "axle" rod thru the existing holes.
Eleminates welding??

I did think about that. The lift arm holes appear to be 1/2" and the whole arm is 7/8" unfortunately

[Ambush]

You won’t need heat, it’s not heavy steel and likely quite soft. Hammer the ends flat, then put the bar in a vice and bend it with a crescent wrench. Use a half inch bolt (in the 7/8”) hole and pull back on the hitch when you tighten it. You will likely have to spread the arms a bit.


And I agree with ole’George, that’s a poor design being that high. Even dangerous if you’re careless. Even once. If you can possibly put weight on the front, then you should.

[302wSBF]

Originally Posted by Ambush

You won’t need heat, it’s not heavy steel and likely quite soft. Hammer the ends flat, then put the bar in a vice and bend it with a crescent wrench. Use a half inch bolt (in the 7/8”) hole and pull back on the hitch when you tighten it. You will likely have to spread the arms a bit.


And I agree with ole’George, that’s a poor design being that high. Even dangerous if you’re careless. Even once. If you can possibly put weight on the front, then you should.

Shame on me for not being clear. The arm is 7/8" wide. The arm hole is ~3/8" or so. So if I drill it out there will be a 1/8" on either side.

Understood about trailer weight. Fortunately this is a tiny trailer used for brush. Caution will be used.

Thank you for your continued advice! I'll figure this out somehow.

I'm considering using 1/2" rod, nuts/washers, and flatstock to make a "tee" from the hitch to the threaded rod. Not ideal though.

[Ambush]

Can you post a pic of the rear of the frame where you’d like to bolt it.

[Ambush]

On the frame of my 149 there is the hole and boss for the hitch lift, which is 5/8”. I also have a couple of 3/8” holes drilled in the frame for a gusset for the hitch mount.

You could just drill two holes where you want them?

[darkminion_17]

Your brake rods are on upside down, cotter pin falls out and no brakes....

[Ambush]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Your brake rods are on upside down, cotter pin falls out and no brakes....

Good eye, thank you, and that makes total sense. ?