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#11
07-18-2023, 08:53 AM
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ALL electrical connections NEED to be bright and tight and corrosion free.
Ground cable to the frame comes to mind here. Only thing near the battery is the voltage regulator. Something loose there?? Make sure all those connections are clean and tight as well and DO NOT mix the terminals up. Clean one at a time and replace them where they were originally and make sure the V/R is well grounded. Look for broken connections in the mounts. 
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#12
07-18-2023, 10:42 AM
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checked to see if it was grounding out.
1.key turned off, no sparks.good 2.key turned on, sparks, as expected. would not start without battery pack on. battery pack on, started. 1. when i went to check voltage put the negative lead on battery, tractor stopped running, need to wait 5 mins to restart. 2. restarted, put the positive lead on first, reading on voltage meter 13.42 to 13.52 ( it bounced between them), took battery pack off, ran for about 45 sec. 3. put battery pack back on, restarted, ran with full throttle, ran for almost a min. 4. restarted at 50% throttle, rechecked voltage same as before, but when tyhe meter was on sound of engine changed, sounded boggie, took meter of sounded a little better, let run,ran for about 1.5 mins. conclusion : I'm starting to think it's the voltage regulator. looking forward to what you guys think?  
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#13
07-19-2023, 12:23 PM
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Just wondering. Does the starter/generator get very hot very fast when the engine is running by chance? I don’t remember what caused it but I had one go bonkers before that would bog the engine down.
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#14
07-20-2023, 07:46 AM
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the starter/generator does not get hot fast, and it show a good ground,the ohms reading is .002
how about a bad or dirty spark plug? going to run more tests. 1. get it started with a battery pack. 2. run WOT to see how long it runs. a) then test with meter, get a reading and see if it stops running. 3 run at 1/5 throttle, see how long it runs. a) then test with meter, get reading and see if it stops. still look for a way to test voltage regulator with meter, to be sure. what if, their is some thing is not right with the carb that messes with fuel flow? and my uncle got fuel that is non-ethanol fuel- what if something went wrong at gas station and we get like 10% ethanol fuel would that cause similar problems? just trying to think out side the box
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#15
07-20-2023, 07:51 AM
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also i keep coming up with people talking about "Polarizing the generator" for the cob cadets, they say when every you take the battery out/change it or put a new/rebuilt starter/generator in, you need to "Polarizing the generator", what are they talking about.
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#16
07-20-2023, 09:43 AM
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Polarizing is NOT needed.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#17
07-20-2023, 10:32 AM
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With a good battery w/sufficient CCA's you should NOT need a jumper pack for these little Kohlers.
Remove the spark plug and the S/GT should spin that engine w/gusto. and no issues. Sounds like you have compression issues such as broken ACR spring and/or timing issues. Or, bearing issues in the S/G? does it spin easily by hand w/the belt loosened? Any noises when spun? And, something is wired wrong, you should not get sparks when hooking the neg battery post. Isolate the wiring issue before you burn the harness up man! Is the coil wired correctly? Points & condenser to the negative side?
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#18
07-20-2023, 01:18 PM
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replaced the block with a restored block from Kustom Lawn & Garden.
when it tried running this morning: started without the battery pack, check the voltage at battery, 13.4 V. then engine started to run ruff and stopped, sounded like it was running out of gas, ran for about 1.5 mins. then i started it again ran at WOT, ran for about 45 sec., when it stopped running it sounded just like the first time this morning. i will check the s/g for how well is spins with belt lose.
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#20
07-20-2023, 06:38 PM
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yes the governor was set so the engine would not run over 3500 rpm, the place were i got the restored block from talked to the mechanic who did the work, moving everything from the old block to the new one, to make sure the warranty did not get voided.
as to the carb, i don't know. been wanting to do that, but need to keep the engine running. don't even know if the holes in to high speed idle control are clean (think so), did check the slow speed idle control, looked clean but for a scorch mark on it, ( and i did what my farther told me to do years ago, turn it all the way in counting 1/2 turns so you know were it was set)
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