Spark plug problem

[rsshallop]

OK, here are the readings I got from the multimeter for the coils and ignition wire.

OLD COIL
Primary Resistance with multimeter set at 200 ohms: 6.7
Secondary Resistance with multimeter set at 20000 ohms: 9.18

NEW COIL

Primary Resistance with multimeter set at 200 ohms: 4.9
Secondary Resistance with multimeter set at 20000 ohms: 10.05

IGNITION WIRE RESISTANCE: Tested at 200 ohms

The multimeter was bouncing all over the place 55.99, 18.34, 5.80, 0.00...etc, etc, etc.

Now, I could not find a new ignition wire in town, but Rob at the hardware store suggested the fix shown below. After implementing it, resistance came in at a steady 1.9 ohms. The wire is a little shorter now and somewhat of a stretch, but it should suffice for testing on the engine until I can get a new one. Thank you Merk for the list of things to be aware of. Not sure if this will correct the problem, but it's a start.

[R Bedell]

I went to the Auto Parts Stores and bought solid copper core wire for my Kohler Ignition plug wires. Works great.

[rsshallop]

Thanks Roland,

They have a good auto parts store down in Lindsay. I'll buy the wire and cap ends along with a couple of Autolite #216 plugs next time I'm down there. Even simple stuff like this is new to me.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by rsshallop

Hello Merk,
This is how I am running the engine now:

1) Plug wire : original
2) Gasoline: about 4 months old. 91 octane without ethanol
3) Carb size: I believe it's a 26, I would have to check though.
4) Spark plug electrodes: sooty. I'm probably running it too rich.
5) Rebuild: stock
6) Points and Condenser: the condenser is new, but I'm going with the points that came with the tractor for now.

I have a multimeter , so I'm going to test both the new coil and old coil to see if there are any differences. I will also check the resistance of the plug wire. I will report back a little later today with my findings.

Hello Roland,
Yes, I agree. Always better to use original parts when possible.

A few things I would do are:
Get fresh gas-Your engine doesn't need 91 octane gas to run. High octane fuel in a engine design to run on low octane fuel will leave sooty deposits on the spark plug. Another thing I do is keep fresh gas with a fuel stabilizer in it. A Kohler service says to replace gas every 30 days with fresh gas.

I would replace the spark plug wire. I used an Auto Lite 216 spark plug. I haven't had any luck with champion plugs.

[rsshallop]

OK, Thanks for the additional advice. I'm assuming that using the proper grade of gas will also help me better adjust the carburetor to the sweet spot. Right now I'm having a hard time finding it. I trying to be very careful not to lean it out too much, but I can't get rid of a hint of black carbon in the exhaust.

[ol'George]

I've never had a problem with "old gas" but don't mean it doesn't happen.
RV Gas ( non alcohol) might be minutes old from yer retailer, but been sitting in his tank a year, maybe more.
Considering the added cost of it, just how much do they really sell??
just food for thought.
lean up that carb so the plug is not sooty.
Nestles quick is a purdy color for an electrode.

[Billy-O]

How about a picture or two of those fouled plugs? Just curious why it is shorted on itself.

[rsshallop]

Hello Billy-O, Sorry for the delayed reply. I was working in the basement most of the day and we had a birthday party to go to in the early evening. Anyway, attached are pictures of the two remaining plugs that I have. I'm pretty sure the others found their way to the dump. I wiped the electrode on the NGK plug thinking that it might help while I was grasping for a solution to the issue. Needless to say, that didn't help. If you want to private message me your address, I will mail the two plugs that I do have to you for a closer look. I could not find anything on the internet on this kind of damage to a spark plug running under the conditions I outlined when I started this post. I was and am completely baffled (not that I know much about this kind of stuff to begin with) on how this could have happened. More importantly, I hope that the fix to the bad ignition wire will in fact correct the condition.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by rsshallop

Hello Billy-O, Sorry for the delayed reply. I was working in the basement most of the day and we had a birthday party to go to in the early evening. Anyway, attached are pictures of the two remaining plugs that I have. I'm pretty sure the others found their way to the dump. I wiped the electrode on the NGK plug thinking that it might help while I was grasping for a solution to the issue. Needless to say, that didn't help. If you want to private message me your address, I will mail the two plugs that I do have to you for a closer look. I could not find anything on the internet on this kind of damage to a spark plug running under the conditions I outlined when I started this post. I was and am completely baffled (not that I know much about this kind of stuff to begin with) on how this could have happened. More importantly, I hope that the fix to the bad ignition wire will in fact correct the condition.

No need to mail the the plugs. Thanks..... Those plugs pictured looks fouled. If it wasn't the spark plugs wire, then perhaps you are just to rich. Have you run this engine WOT? If you are running idle all this time.... These motor don't like that. And, what was your reason to replace the coil?

[rsshallop]

The engine is newly rebuilt, hence a lot of new parts, including the coil. I just want to see it run a little bit so I can take it back out and get on with fixing the rest of the tractor. Yes, I have run it wide open. Working on engines and equipment is something that has interested me since I was a kid. Now that I'm older, I want to try my hand at it just for the satisfaction.