LT1040 Fuel Leak

[cracker]

Well I had to directly to Cub. Other parts place was clueless. Then the Cub parts guy looked up a starter soleniod even though I told him a Carb shutoff solenoid.

Finally he found it and it was $117!!!!!!!!!!

I freaked out. He said sorry. And i found it on Amazon for $35. The internet is an amazing place. Years ago I would have to deal with them and that would be it. Not anymore.

I will let you know how it goes.

[cracker]

Worked like a charm. Went in very easy and no more leaks.

So moral of the story get part number from Cub and do a search on web for model number verify with a picture and saved myself about $400 considering parts, labor, and tansporting my cub.

Thanks for you help guys.

[oldman2u]

Glad things worked out for you on the part #. However, I used to work for Sears Parts and they became very wise when peeps would call in for a part #, get the price, then go elsewhere to purchase. Sears STOPPED giving out part numbers and was told to tell customers we didn't give part #'s out. That was the end of that!

Again, glad it worked out well for you.

[Cannon51]

Originally Posted by cracker

The internet is an amazing place. Years ago I would have to deal with them and that would be it. .

I remember when my wife got out first computer, I told her it was not worth a damn for anything. Now every project I do (Mowers, home Improvement, cars) I research it on the internet. Glad you got it going, I mowed some with my LTX1040 yesterday.
Cannon

[Raccoon Dad]

I had the same problem with leaking around the carb. I took it all apart and ended up removing the rubber stop from the top of the solenoid shaft. I then reinstalled it to use as a plug. This way I'm sure the threads are right.
So far so good. Running well without a leak and better starting. Thank all of you for your help. No such thing as a fuel shut off solenoid on any of the bikes I've owned over the years....

[ironman]

Information for inquiring minds that want to know.....
The solenoid of topic is NOT actually a "fuel shutoff" in the sense that it shuts off fuel flow TO the carburetor.

It's main purpose is to be an "anti-backfire device". Whereas many people tend to kill their tractor's ignition without letting the motor "idle down" before turning off the key, the high rate of residual RPM without spark continues to draw raw gas into the motor and is pushed thru where it collects in the hot muffler. The result many times is a shotgun blast backfire which scares the bejesus out of the whole neighborhood.

The "anti-backfire solenoid" is supposed to work like this: as soon as the key is turned off, power is removed from the solenoid, releasing the plunger which then blocks fuel already in the bowl from being drawn up into the venturi and thru the engine, supposedly resulting in no backfire.

I have seen many of these valves that don't do their job very well and still allow backfires. I have seen may that are bad and wont energize and prevent the engine from starting. But I have never see one that actually leaked itself, usually the fiber sealing washer was the culprit.

One other thing, you need a 1/2" wrench to remove and install the solenoid. The gap where the wrench must fit between the bottom of the fuel bowl and the solenoid housing is very narrow, too narrow for a standard 1/2" to fit in there. You will most likely have to grind a wrench down to fit.

[ol'George]

They are also an anti dieseling or run-on preventer.
Back in the 60's they started using them as a shut off on many engines
that continued to run on a cyl or more, because of hot combustion chambers, even after the ignition power was shut off.
By shutting off the fuel flow to the carb main jet, it stopped the engine cleanly.