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#11
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Lots to choose from out there but this is what/where I've been buying....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-9876-CR...l/282774159062 |
#12
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huh since posting this Q, I got another CR seal number, 9878 instead of 9876, seems like same dimensions.... huh.... thanks Ironman....
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#13
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Looks like the 9876 is single lip and the 9878 is double lip. Maybe double is better??
https://www.grainger.com/product/SKF...-Rotary-40J928 https://www.grainger.com/product/SKF...-Rotary-40J929 http://www.skfextranet.com/catalogs/...ail.asp?s=9876 http://www.skfextranet.com/catalogs/...ail.asp?s=9878 |
#14
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The 9876 I found out is 5/16" thick, 9878 is 1/4". Looks like different seal lip material between them. One says it has a spring behind the lip while the other one doesn't specify one way or the other.
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#15
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I guess you didn't bother to look at the links I put in my previous post. They are both 1/4" and they both have springs, and they are both made of the same material (nitrile). The only difference is single/double lip.
Additionally, the eBay link I posted has this picture of the 9876 clearly showing it is .25 inch. If you don't pay any attention to the help someone tries to give you, why bother asking? |
#16
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I did look at what you said and appreciate it very much. I don't have either in front of me at the moment, but looking up on Google the specs of each seal, and the differences between, once I read your post, that's what I saw in more spots than one. Not at all trying to argue what you say. I have 4 seals coming(2 of these rear ends to do axle seals on....) from Motion Industries.... will be here tomorrow for $3.17 each. genuine CR brand.
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#17
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Glad for you that this hurdle has been cleared. At least we both learned that there are a couple of options. I'm just not sure which is best or if it matters, but next time I'll probably lean towards the double lip seal since they refer to is as a dust/dirt lip.
By the way, whatever weight "genuine CR brand" means, I dunno?? CR (Chicago Rawhide) is owned by SKF. |
#18
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The 9878 is the one i get, at NAPA or ordered of the bay. Mike
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#19
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Hey ironman, I just looked again at your info posted and I saw it said the weight was .437 oz... maybe I mistook that for thickness.
and from what I said about "genuine" CR, figures they got bought out... for years, CR was its own company and they were huge.... |
#20
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OK... CR # 9878 are in. Took out NATIONAL 471224. Right side seems the only one that was leaking. but replaced both. Had something stringey bound up wound on axle right against case, both sides, but.... left side was worse.
Left rotor surface was also badly rusted/ corroded, right side more polished. Understandable with the trans oil working with the brake pads to "polish" the surface. I degreased the axles in my Safety Kleen tank, then brake clean, then taped off the shaft itself (especially the bearing and seal area) and put the axle shafts into the glass bead cabinet, cleaned all the nastiness off/ then taped off the friction surfaces and primered everything not taped off.... Thought I had the inside of the rear end case clean, but tonite I discovered lots of sludge stuck up top... missed that yesterday, when I gave it the brake clean bath inside. Of course I had it on one of those expanded metal garden wagons, tipped nose up with a 4X4 Block to make it drain into my pan easier, didn't see up in there toward top of case. gonna have to take care of that.... wish I had room for the cherry picker by the solvent tank to hang it over that.... don't want to set that heavy thing on the edges of the tank. oh well, there's other ways. next to order some brake friction material from Mc Master. 1st time that I have had one of these calipers apart, a whole lot less to them than I thought there might be. I think I have some left over contact cement from working on my camper.... have to look. got the last 2 things off the 1650 carcass that I wanted and/or needed to save today. I hate roll pins/ spirol pins!!! I took the front axle off the parts tractor and the lift link that replaces the lift handle on the hydro lift machines.... Pound and pound and pound the roll pins, sprayed liberally with Kroil, no help. Had to grind the mushroomed ends off flush, then get out the acetylene torch to get them to budge. That front axle spirol pin, wish it was anywhere but straight horizontal.... got at it, to get the spirol moving with a long taper punch and plenty of heat, once I got it 1/2 way out I had to use 2 flat punches piggyback style, to be able to drive that one out, once I tipped tractor frame on its side. I know that the portion of the trunnion with the dual springs in it on the 1650 trans that I want to use, needs a little attn from my MIG in the corners, not as bad as some I've seen on here, while the Chevy emblem portion of the trunnion looks good, compared to pix I have seen on here of other people's... the original goal was to put all of the good stuff that I have on hand into 1 machine, being I have 1 Cub spec Kohler between the 3 machines.... we will have to see. hopefully get the 1650 axle back together this weekend, and swapped into the 129. |
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