Plow lift handle bracket question

[darkminion_17]

for you smashers and grinders read pages 10 and 11

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/c...nstall+Man.pdf

[CubbyRI]

Thanks, I did learn the hard way about that. I had to pry inward the left side bracket with the pin that goes up and down with the lift lever not sure what the components are called. and then pry apart the plow frame forks and then it all came together and works. Plow is rusty but the only issues are it could use a new edge and doesnt have the skid feet things. but we have extremely short driveway and the walkway is dirt and grass no not urgent.

Also the dozer lock latch is bent and pretty rusty so I'll make a new one of those.

As to the lift bracket I cut off the extra on the tabs as they add no strength or other function that I could see anyway.

Now just waiting for some snow! (and start looking for wheel weights and decide what to fill the tires with)

thanks as always for the replies

[darkminion_17]

You put a bolt through the tabs and it pinches the bracket on the rock shaft. It helps to keep it from from moving side to side. That bolt you took out on the foot rest is a pain to reinstall as I see...

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

You put a bolt through the tabs and it pinches the bracket on the rock shaft. It helps to keep it from from moving side to side. That bolt you took out on the foot rest is a pain to reinstall as I see...

I think the foot rest bolt should be easy as it came out easy. we'll see. I just ran outta time to get that today.

As to the bracket bolt, ahhh now I get it. I could fab that back on but in a way that works, but we'll see if it moves first. may not be an issue. more good info though!

so, the "rock shaft" is what goes thru the frame and has those bar stock pieces below with the pins, and what the lift handle moves?

cant wait for some snow LOL keepin lookout for affordable wheel weights, and decide what to fill the tires with

I wonder how bad the traction will be with my 200lbs in the seat but no weights?

[Ambush]

I'm no coward when it comes the cutting, grinding and bending on machinery, but I also like to know the serious ramifications of the result. Sit on the tractor and imagine all the ways that contraption could hurt you if it comes off the foot rest shaft because there's no bolt retaining it. Maybe none, then you're good to go.

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by Ambush

I'm no coward when it comes the cutting, grinding and bending on machinery, but I also like to know the serious ramifications of the result. Sit on the tractor and imagine all the ways that contraption could hurt you if it comes off the foot rest shaft because there's no bolt retaining it. Maybe none, then you're good to go.

Good thought. But I dont see anything applying force to it enough to move the u-bolt. but hey, who knows?

I found this on ebay, supposedly the correct item. Model 100 snow plow lift arm. I could make this easily.

[Ambush]

Actually, looks like you have chain on the lift? No problems then.

[CubbyRI]

Originally Posted by Ambush

Actually, looks like you have chain on the lift? No problems then.

yeah it came with that but I was thinking I might change it to a rod as original. not sure what the difference is except the rod kinda holds the plow down against the ground I would think. but its own weight should do that as well. I dunno, new to cub plows

[finsruskw]

With no chains and no EXTRA weight, you will have a tough time pushing much more that a few inches of snow.

Even WITH chains, the biggest issue will be backing up if you get so much snow that it spills over the back of the blade.

High speed and good weighted traction is the key here plus (very important) knowing in advance what is UNDER the snow in terms of possible obstacles/obstructions.

When the windrow rolling off the edge of the plow gets above blade height, you are pretty much screwed and it's time to break out the thrower or tackle the windrow head on at a 90* angle.

Good luck, be safe and have a blast!!

[CubbyRI]

I figured out that i can probably add a square block of concrete, making a box form and use mesh inside plus rebar sticking out to go thru the cub hitch and a loop of cable to my new upper hitch. that would weigh about 200lb but be kinda big. I am getting prices from foundries for making that in cast iron.

Concrete = about 150lb per square foot. Iron is 491lbs per sq ft!.

17"w x 9"h and 16 deep (sticking off the rear diff by 16") 210lb

I dunno. sawdust IIRC pointed out the best weight is on the wheels themselves as it doesnt involve the wheel bearings. But I think they are pretty stout.

be nice to find reasonably priced BIg wheel weights and tire fluid. Calc Chloride is heaviest (by kind of a lot). Not sure where to get that around here will have to dig around. Might be expensive too and need a pump to push it thru the tire stem

My neighbor merely bought a snowblower at HD and was clearing snow in minutes after getting home so why al I doing all this? Oh thats right is more fun! lol