1512 steering gear and drive shaft replacement - Page 2

Oak · #11 10-02-2014, 10:10 PM

Looking good Tacosteeler, you have been busy!

My 882 column was busted up too but not as bad as yours. Good thing your up there in the land of Cubs for parts too. You shouldn't have any problem finding what you need.

When I made my driveshaft, I cut it the same as the old out of 4140 Chrome Moly only to find out that it was a little too long and I had to cut another because the new rag joints were thicker than the old. Three new rags were as thick as 4 of the old. I now get them completely bolted up and then cut the shaft last. You will also need to use carriage bolts on the front part of the shaft rag joint connection so that the heads don't hit. You might be able to save that front motor hub if you can get a new piece welded on. Let me know if you need some ball bushings too because I just ordered 30 of them for something like $3.00 a piece. Nice job on the pics too.

Tacosteelersman · #12 10-02-2014, 10:29 PM

Thanks Oak, yes there are old cadets all over the place up here, very few diesels though. I was also thinking about getting that barrel part cut off of the face of that coupler plate and a new one welded on. That piece complete with Bearing is over 100$. I could cut a standard gas engine drive shaft about 3" shorter to fit, then drill it for roll pins too.
While I lay in bed at night not sleeping cause I want to work on the Cubota I will have to figure out what I want to do. Atleast I have some options I guess.

Just puttin more pics up for no particular reason. Although it does show where the rag joints were contacting the hydro filter, the filter is accually dented from getting beat on. I have not done the hydro maintence yet.

FrankF3 · #13 10-03-2014, 12:31 AM

I had a steering tube that was really beat up also. The case housing was ok. I was able to separate the two and used a muffler pipe expander to work the wrinkles out of the tube with a body hammer. Then used some threadlocker and a homemade ring to stiffen/back up the inside of the steering tube inside of the cast piece. I swear there was an article about do that either on this or another forum.

Tacosteelersman · #14 10-03-2014, 01:07 AM

I saw that too but I don't recall where. I'm gonna scrap this one I think. It is busted up preaty bad.

J-Mech · #15 10-03-2014, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

You got all the good out of the drive shaft. Time to get the wallet out and buy some new parts. If it was a 1572 or a 1772 I go for a CV shaft from a Cyclops but I don't know of anything for your tractor other than OEM.

Sam,

Looks to me like the 1512 and the 1772 use the same parts other than the length of the shaft. Same engine adapter, same rag joint on the trans. I know that one pump uses a spirol pin, and the other is splined.... but, any reason you see why he can't go with the cyclops shaft? Looks like it would work to me......

Sam Mac · #16 10-03-2014, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Sam,

Looks to me like the 1512 and the 1772 use the same parts other than the length of the shaft. Same engine adapter, same rag joint on the trans. I know that one pump uses a spirol pin, and the other is splined.... but, any reason you see why he can't go with the cyclops shaft? Looks like it would work to me......

The problem is that the Cyclops shafts are splined on both ends and to the best of my knowledge there is not one that is the correct length. It may be possible to cut one, sleeve it and weld it back together. If it was my tractor I'd do it but I don't have one to play with. 782D is in the same boat. Adapters for the pump and engine are no problem. The pump shaft can be drilled and tapped, I did that on an 1872. 1572 may be a bit tougher because it's shorter so the rear may need to come out to get enough room to drill it. Probably a lot less trouble to just keep it OEM.

Tacosteelersman · #17 10-03-2014, 10:50 AM

Thanks for the suggestions and comments.
I would love to modify the drive shaft but I don't have any fabrication background. If I have to, I can handle changing out rag joints every so often if that's what I need to do, it's a preaty easy job.
I will look for carriage bolts for the front rag, although it might be a real PITA to get them out if they spin while trying to get the nut back off for future maintence.

red56turbo · #18 10-03-2014, 11:24 AM

Taco,
Your flying through the 1512. I need to send mine your way to work on it. My time in nonexistent right now.

My 1512's driveshaft looked exactly like yours. My front hub just needed a new bushing put in it though. The OEM setup will last. You just need to keep an eye on it and make sure things are kept tight. Bad thing about the diesels are they eat driveshafts for breakfast. Every diesel I've had needed the driveshaft rebuilt. Haven't done the 1782 yet. One thing to remember when going back together is not to overtighten the nuts on the rag joints. Some guys crank them down and distort the rag joints. That will shorten the life of the rags and cause premature failure. They are locking nuts and need to be tight, not as tight as possible. That's one nice thing about the CV shafts, no rag joints. Looking forward to the progress. Keep the pics coming.

Darrell · #19 10-03-2014, 11:27 AM

If the metal adapter that the carriage bolts go thru is the same as a gas Cub , it has square holes in it for the carriage bolts so they do not spin.

I have bought used rag joint couplers from Ebay , especially the older couplers because they have a smaller hole in them and are stronger. But , with a diesel , i would get the new.

Get your bushings from Oak , i think Cub wants like $20/$25 apiece.

If you get a different steering column , make sure you get one from a yellow/white Cub as it has the three turn steering , steers a whole lot easier. I am not sure when they started using the three turn column , but every yellow/white tractor i have been on had it.

A used column for a GT is no problem to find , and you might as well rebuild it if needed and do the " supersteer " upgrade. There is a writeup in the Tech Library for tractors on this.

You got an excellent buy on your Smoker , well worth spending the money on it.

Tacosteelersman · #20 10-03-2014, 11:45 AM

Thanks for the comments and much needed details for finding and installing the drive shaft and Ross gear. I appreciete the help.

I will be sure to not over tighten the rags, the ones I took out were over tight and cracked n smooshed.
I will be sure to get a 3 turn gear, and the rebuild, with thrust bearing upgrade is also going to happen. I did not enjoy getting the Ross gear out of this tractor, and now that it is out, it will not go back in till it's rebuilt and right.