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  #11  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:55 PM
B-Brush B-Brush is offline
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i think there must be a problem with the bearings i know a guy just replaced the bearings on his 1650 he got about 8 hours out of them before they were complete junk very discouraging
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  #12  
Old 04-25-2011, 11:43 PM
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william1041200 william1041200 is offline
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IH did weld a backing washer to the inside of the spindle to hold the bearings. That is not a PO mod. 3/4 id washers can be bought, and 'machine bushings' can be bought at most hardware stores, that is what I was talking about. Some people feel the need to take up some of the looseness that is necessary.
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  #13  
Old 04-25-2011, 11:59 PM
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I ordered new bearings from Motion Industries. The 3/4" ones were $7.26 each and the part number is RF12-22-14-PP. I think they were double sealed and a good bearing not like the ones I got at the local hardware store. The 1" bearing for newer cubs is part number RF16-32-16-PP and they were $16.65 each from McMaster Carr.
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  #14  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william1041200 View Post
IH did weld a backing washer to the inside of the spindle to hold the bearings. That is not a PO mod. 3/4 id washers can be bought, and 'machine bushings' can be bought at most hardware stores, that is what I was talking about. Some people feel the need to take up some of the looseness that is necessary.
I wasn't saying the factory shoulder was a PO mod, the way I understood the OP was that someone had welded one on over and above this one. Now looking back I can see where he might have thought that was put on by someone. LOL.

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  #15  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:51 PM
roaf3 roaf3 is offline
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The picture you provided is what I have now.

I changed the spindle.

I bought a new rim because the old one had been eroded.

I went to NAPA and bought some sealed bearings.

Tomorrow? I will try to get it together.

If it looks like the parts picture then I guess that is all I can do !

I do appreciate all of the input.

No worries because I have a new clutch and a "button" on the PTO to change next.

Cheers,

Roy
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2011, 12:57 AM
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Southtowns27 Southtowns27 is offline
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Take some pics of everything for us while it's apart, and while you assemble it. Maybe we'll spot something that's giving you the trouble.
Also, one thing to check for, after you put the wheel back on the spindle and tighten down the retaining bolt, the wheel should spin perfectly free and have a bit of "slop" back and forth on the spindle. If the wheel is tight, both trying to spin, or on the spindle, STOP! Somethin' ain't right! Let us know what you find.
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2011, 05:02 PM
roaf3 roaf3 is offline
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The new bearings are in.

There was an extra washer in front of the "factory shoulder".

This cause the race to collapse and the bearings were ground up.

THANKS ! for the NAPA bearings. They are better steel and sealed. They

fit like factory. THANKS ! for the parts diagram. My tractor now looks like the picture and spins freely with just a wee bit of lateral motion.

This board is really a wonderful bank of knowledge and help.

The clutch is next.....

Cheers,

Roy
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2011, 06:28 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Roy I'm glad everything worked out for you! We all know the feeling when we needed a helping when we got stuck working on our cubs.
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