Check your iso mounts 1450 - Page 2

_DX3_ · #11 05-17-2011, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfrank

Does anyone have the dimensions of the front engine snubbers, Ive already ordered the iso mounts but would like to find an alternative to the 11.00 snubbers on the ql series. Im thinking that mcmaster might have something that will work.

I have a brand spanking new snubber in the shop. For whatever reason it came with two carb rebuild kits I got from Evil Pay. I will get you the measurements soon as I can.

sbigler · #12 05-18-2011, 01:31 AM

"cradle mod" as in welding in a piece of flat stock to connect the two sides of the cradle in effect making it one piece correct? Remember, I'm a noob.

Methos · #13 05-18-2011, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbigler

"cradle mod" as in welding in a piece of flat stock to connect the two sides of the cradle in effect making it one piece correct? Remember, I'm a noob.

Here's the write up on it in the techincal section of the site.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4630

sbigler · #14 05-19-2011, 01:36 AM

That write up is a little better than the other one I saw.

sbigler · #15 07-22-2011, 02:50 AM

Just curious. Does anyone get as frustrated when I do when it comes to working on these things? Is me or every effing thing a royal pita? I'm trying to put the motor back in an I'm about to shoot up the neighborhood I'm so ticked off. Everything is hard to reach. Nothing will stay lined up. I tried every combination possible to put the thing together and it's like the most un-fun puzzle there is. Perhaps after I solve the world hunger, cure aids, discover nuclear fusion, and bring peace on earth I'll finally have the wisdom and enlightenment to put this pos back together. I consider myself a capable mechanic. My patience is totally shot. I can see now why some people don't like the QL series.

steveyrock · #16 07-22-2011, 05:40 PM

That kind of torment makes you a better mechanic.I also came to the conclusion that the quietlines are a pretty good tractor after you get to know them and correct the problems that are associated with a 35 + yr old tractor.

_DX3_ · #17 07-22-2011, 05:46 PM

I think I must have gotten pretty lucky with my 1250. I had to remove the motor to replace the stator then found out about the iso bushings and then the cradle mod and etc, etc. After fixing everything I could mechanically with the 1250 including welding and fixing the trunion and bushings and springs I got it all put back together with very little issue. The motor went right in and the drive shaft had no problem. The only thing that was hard to get in was one front engine mount bolt. A new bolt just would not go in, so I found an old bolt in my bolt bin that screwed just as smoothly as it could right up into the mount and all was well. I had even tapped all the threads and installed all new grade 8 bolts everywhere. I bet if I were to do another it might drive me to drinking tho, LOL, one never knows how bad a piece of machinery is going to fight you till you get in there and try it. I hope you get it whipped and going good.

truckntran · #18 07-22-2011, 10:07 PM

A good set of flex sockets and a few universals in 1/4 drive makes the Iso bolts easier to install, but they sure are a pain.. You do have the cast iron grille and hood out of the way, right? I remember having to tape the nut into a socket to install a couple of the nuts on my 1200...

sbigler · #19 07-22-2011, 10:47 PM

I have the grill and everything off. It's weird. I think to myself, do I install the cradle first, and lower the motor onto the cradle? Nope - can't tighten the front two bolts that hold the cradle to the motor because they are blocked by the front crossmember. After several test fits and adjustments I managed to get the cradle bolted to the motor. I then tilted and lowered the motor into the chassis. Now I'm having the pleasure of wrestling the two rear iso-mounts and fasteners into place. The front two are easy. The rears are a real mofo. It wouldn't be so bad if the motor didn't sit so deep into the frame.

Matt G. · #20 07-22-2011, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbigler

I have the grill and everything off. It's weird. I think to myself, do I install the cradle first, and lower the motor onto the cradle? Nope - can't tighten the front two bolts that hold the cradle to the motor because they are blocked by the front crossmember. After several test fits and adjustments I managed to get the cradle bolted to the motor. I then tilted and lowered the motor into the chassis. Now I'm having the pleasure of wrestling the two rear iso-mounts and fasteners into place. The front two are easy. The rears are a real mofo. It wouldn't be so bad if the motor didn't sit so deep into the frame.

Unless someone has modified the crossmember, there is, in fact, room to get those bolts in there. There should be an oval slot in each side of the top of the crossmember for the bolts. Put the cradle in first, then set the engine on the rails and use a tapered punch to line up the back two bolt holes, and start the bolts. The front ones should be very close to lining up, and you should be able to get them finger tight, then finish it with a ratchet and socket, with the front of the tractor jacked up and the axle pivoted such that you have more room for your hands and tools in that area.