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#11
07-18-2011, 02:08 PM
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Drive shaft
Here is the drive shaft alteration. As luck would have it the original 682 drive shaft fits right inside the other. Couldn't ask for anything better than that. Once I get the correct length I will be able to pin the two half's with a couple coiled spirol pins. And the motor is a straight shot to the hydro pump with no spacers.
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#12
07-18-2011, 07:52 PM
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Use KT-17 or M18 spacers...they are 0.49" thick, IIRC. If you can find an 1863/4 or any other cyclops w/ Kohler command twin muffler, that'll be pretty close. When I put one of these in my 582, I cut up and re-welded the header from the 2185 system. It sounds cool but is deafening and seems to be making the engine run too rich. Someday I'll have to make it a muffler.
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#13
07-19-2011, 09:05 AM
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Nice work! So, wonder what name/model of tractor you will have? Thats what I'am planning on doing, repower to a k301 in the IH 71.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
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#14
07-19-2011, 11:17 AM
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Johncub just got done doing that with a 71. I rebuilt a 12hp and stuck it in the 71. I guess you could call it a 121.
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#15
07-21-2011, 06:21 PM
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No pics today but got a little more accomplished on the 682 today. I have the motor mount plate re-drilled for the 18 command to sit on. Made the correct spacers at work the other night. Thank You Matt for the correct dimensions on the spacers. Drive shaft is done. Decided the covers needed to come off the motor for a good cleaning. Glad I did that. It was quite dirty. Small set back in doing that, three of the six flywheel shroud bolts broke off. PO'D I have a new Hanson tap and die set so I will be drilling out the broken bolts and re tapping the holes. New steering column will be going in this weekend. I picked up a three turn steering column from TEET last year. Will turn a little easier than the two turn one that is in it.
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#17
07-22-2011, 02:26 AM
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I hate to do this to you, but Matt's dimentions on the spacers was wrong. They are actually .469"
AJ
__________________
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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#18
07-22-2011, 01:38 PM
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Good catch ajgross. Motor is not installed yet so the shims are going back to work with me and spend a few minutes on the surface grinder. I can't imagine .021 would do much damage with flex joints on both ends but better be safe than sorry. I got the broken shroud bolts repaired this morning. Tomorrow will be heading over into TEETs neighborhood to pick up my all the pieces for the hydraulics. Then the final assembly will start.
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#19
07-22-2011, 04:54 PM
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Thanks AJ, I knew there was a 9 in there somewhere. 21 thou probably wouldn't bother a hydro, but it might give you grief if it was a gear drive. I think I had to shim one of the spacers on mine a bit so the clutch would release.
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#20
07-23-2011, 10:37 PM
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A little work got done on the overhaul but not a lot. Spent the morning chasing parts. Took a drive to western NY to get the hydraulic lift set up that Teet picked up for me. Thank You very much Jeff. Got the dash opening cut out for the hydraulic handle. Steering column has been changed. Started working on removing the manual lift rock shaft. Not much luck in doing that so in the morning the cutting torch will be coming out. Going to install the new hyd rock shaft tomorrow. I need a little input here. I have never changed a hydro unit before so was wondering if the internal brake arm has to be removed to get the pump out??? And with the seat pan removed can it be changed in the tractor? Just trying to avoid unnecessary work. Don't want to split the tractor if I can avoid it. Thanks for any input. As Always Kelly
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