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Reload this Page Clutch Teaser Spring Question????????
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  #11  
Old 08-24-2009, 02:26 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Merk is right...that '$100 part' is an $8 piece of cold-rolled steel. It's easy to make the driveshaft.
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2009, 02:37 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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I need to build a drive shaft for my 70 this week. I had hope to have it done by now...instead I'm playing Mr. Good Wrench on my Son's auto. I was planning to do a write up when I make a drive shaft for my 70.

There is someone on epay selling drive shafts for $20 to $30 plus shipping.
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2009, 02:51 PM
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Tpelle
just went through that with my 582. My problem was the motor was slid forward about 1/2 inch. Took a while to figure that one out. Now clutch works great.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:25 PM
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[QUOTE=Merk;8925]I take a manual trans over a hydro trans any day. Hydros are good for loosing power and slipping. Clutches are easier to work on.
I'm sorry, I guess not enough time has passed since replacing the one on my 104. Hydros are great for for the slow tractor duties if you have no creeper gear.
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:58 PM
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I would rather pull a drive shaft than even adjust a hydro. IMHO a drive shaft is straight forward 1+1=2. And a hydrostatic drive is more like an algebraic equation. Both will get you where you need to be. I just like simple.
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  #16  
Old 07-20-2011, 08:51 PM
hulby hulby is offline
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Cool Help!
Hello, I'm having the same problem trying to replace the teaser spring. I've looked at the manual, and acknowledge that some of you are saying the diagram is wrong. The issue I am having is the diagram does not show where the parts are in relation to the roll pins. Can someone please break down the order of the parts including the roll pins? I've tried to put this in 4 times now with no luck.

thank you very much!
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  #17  
Old 07-20-2011, 09:08 PM
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william1041200 william1041200 is offline
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the diagram is correct. Teaser spring is to soften clutch pedal apply. Not to separate the plates. Check your pilot bushings. I helped many with this suggestion: replace the bushing and grease it . that is one area that never never gets serviced, and needs it. As the bushing wears, it adds material to the old dry grease forming a bonding material that will drive the driveshaft. Yes, even under load. There is an aftermarket trick to install a spacer(or washers) and a lock washer between the plates to help them separate, but that requires a heavy loading spring, or you will slip. Lock washers are strong.
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  #18  
Old 07-20-2011, 09:40 PM
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Also make sure the drive shaft end is lubbed where it goes in the 3 pin driver.
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2011, 10:00 PM
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Just to clarify, the PARTS LOOKUP diagram is wrong...the SERVICE MANUAL diagram is correct, IIRC.
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  #20  
Old 07-20-2011, 10:20 PM
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OK, I pulled a boner move. Just replaced everything on my 122 and neglected to grease it. Should I take it ALL apart again, and grease, or is there a way to get some on the drive shaft in the tractor.
Don't know what I was thinking, did the 100 and never forgot, any suggestions?
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