1650 - Tell Me About 'EM

[Cub-N-It]

Bill, I have recently aquired a running 1650 with bad iso mounts that I ordered from the dealer today at a cost of $80bucks for the iso mounts, and $30bucks for the snubbers. This will have all the rubber replaced for the engine mounting. Alot of the guys here say it is a must to have your engine cradle braced. Fortunately for me I got one already welded up this past Saturday when I bought a new front axle for mine. Like you, I too am a WheelHorse person. I have 21 years invested in WheelHorse ownership. I love those little red tractors. However I always wanted a Cub Cadet, so about a month ago, one followed me home.
Here are some things you will need to look for when sizing up the overall condition of your 1650;
Look for the serial number. There was a break somewhere around 623,000 where those below that number had 3/4" front axle spindles, and numbers greater than had 1" diameter axles in the front. The serial number on mine is 565,370 which means I had the smaller spindles. The left front wheel bearings were completely trashed, and the spindle was ruined. Fortunately one of the members here offered to sell me a complete axle, 1" spindles, steering linkage, and wheels with tires for a hundred dollars, so that save me alot of pain making the necessary repairs to the front end. Also you need to check the axle for excessive play in the pivot pin area. If the PO did not grease the pivot pin, then the axle can be damaged. Check the king pin bushings where the spindles bolt on to the axle. They seem to easily wear ou there if not greased frequently due to the weight of the tractor with the big K341 Kohler engine pressing down on the front end. BTW, the 1650 may not be built like a tank, but it certainly is built like a tractor (heavy). Oh, and if your king pin area is really worn out, then replacing the bushing may not fix the problem, as the hole in the axle may be wallowed out, so you may be looking at replacing the whole assembly like I did. Check where the pivot pin passes through the chassis for excessive welds, like in the case of a botched repair to that area. From there on out look for bad wiring repairs, worn steering shaft where it passes through the dash, cracks in the body panels, bent or twisted parts of the mule drive system, oil leaks, missing parts, other signs of neglect and misuse.
Sounds to me though like it is definetly worth $300, even as a parts tractor to have as a spare to a better one you buy already running. Oh yeah, on the subject of front wheels, bearings are $28dollars each, and you will need two for each wheel.
OK, I hope this has been a help to you. Good luck
Van

[Methos]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Not equivalent at all...those are $8 car sway bar mounts that someone is reselling. They will not reduce vibrations very well compared to the OEM mounts, which are worth the extra cost, IMO.

I just did the ISO mounts on my 1200 and I pulled the sway bar mounts out and put in ISO mounts. The vibration was just to much for my liking. I agree with Matt. Replace the rag joints and check out the rest of the drive line to make sure they didn't do damage to it by using it too long with the bad ISO mounts.

For $300 I would jump on it but pass on the spare deck.

I have a 1650 with the dual hydraulics and heres where they are located at (circled in red).

[Matt G.]

[QUOTE=Cub-N-It;113595]Oh yeah, on the subject of front wheels, bearings are $28dollars each/QUOTE]



I think you need to shop around a bit...the most I have ever paid for front wheel bearings was about $17 each, and that was for new, USA-made bearings for the 1" spindles on my 1872.

[Cub-N-It]

Thank you Matt. You have been most helpful to me during the short time I have been a member of this forum. You are correct, I do need to shop around a bit to learn the best placdes to buy CC parts. Please PM me with suggestions you may have. Any money you can save me will be most appreciated
Van

[IH Cub Cadet]

1650 Cub Cadet

OK - Thanks for everyone's help. Another queston. Aside from the ISO mounts, what are other aspects that make this tractor maybe less desirable than other Cub Cadets? I think I can easily replace the ISO mounts, but I'm getting a bit of a vibe the Quite Line CC's may have not be the most desired of the IH designs - just in reading/searching the internet.

I am also interested in all areas of this machine that are preceived as not as desireable and why. I figure if I'm going to buy one, I'd like to know every aspect of the design - good or not so good.

Thanks again!
Bill

[Methos]

Originally Posted by leeave96

1650 Cub Cadet

OK - Thanks for everyone's help. Another queston. Aside from the ISO mounts, what are other aspects that make this tractor maybe less desirable than other Cub Cadets? I think I can easily replace the ISO mounts, but I'm getting a bit of a vibe the Quite Line CC's may have not be the most desired of the IH designs - just in reading/searching the internet.

I am also interested in all areas of this machine that are preceived as not as desireable and why. I figure if I'm going to buy one, I'd like to know every aspect of the design - good or not so good.

Thanks again!
Bill

Bill, the people that don't like the QL due to the ISO mounts. ISO mounts are a wearable item on the tractor just like a friction disc for the clutch. Most of the QL haters love the 82 series which are easier to work on. With easier access in the engine compartment.

[Matt G.]

Cub-N-It-

Check to see if you have a Motion Industries or some similar place nearby...that's where I had been getting bearings, snowthrower belts, bronze bushings, etc when I lived in Illinois. They have competitive prices and you can usually pick between USA and foreign-made stuff. McMaster-Carr is also another great place to get a lot of odds'n'ends like tie rod ends, gasket material, wire loom, shims, spirol pins, etc. I also buy a lot of engine parts, air filters, carb rebuild kits, etc. from Tulsa Engine Warehouse. Some parts can be had either OEM or aftermarket, and the OEM stuff is generally cheaper than anywhere else I have found.

[olmstead25]

I to found lots of worry some things about the quiet lines only i didnt find them all untill AFTER my 1450 followed me home. After all my readin i instantly regreted buying it as i was scared i got myselfe into a money pit. The best thing i did was forget every one of those comments from those people that hated on them. i have been running the 1450 for a few months now and is my primary snow remover. i have since purchased a 1650 that needs some fixing but may swap it for a dual hydro. IMHO they look great run great and work like there is no tomorrow. Buy the thing and don't look back! the ISO's are not that bad of a fix as long as they did not damage other things.

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by olmstead25

I to found lots of worry some things about the quiet lines only i didnt find them all untill AFTER my 1450 followed me home. After all my readin i instantly regreted buying it as i was scared i got myselfe into a money pit. The best thing i did was forget every one of those comments from those people that hated on them. i have been running the 1450 for a few months now and is my primary snow remover. i have since purchased a 1650 that needs some fixing but may swap it for a dual hydro. IMHO they look great run great and work like there is no tomorrow. Buy the thing and don't look back! the ISO's are not that bad of a fix as long as they did not damage other things.

Well said.

[IH Cub Cadet]

So I am going to take a second look-see at the 1650 and will likely take it home with me - thanks for all the advice!

Any tricks to get the machine to roll, engine off? Can you disengage the hydro or is there another way?

Thanks again,
Bill