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  #11  
Old 05-08-2012, 01:07 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Making great progress, that is going to look great.
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1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

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2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2012, 04:50 PM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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Steering column - Black]
Fuel tank bracket/ fire wall - Black
Battery box - Red
Brake calipers - ?
Hydraulic lever - Black
Hydraulic valve plate - Black

AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:23 PM
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maddog784 maddog784 is offline
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First of all, thanks for all of the kind words. Also, thank you AJ for getting me straightened out on the color scheme. The color of the calipers still seems to in question - if anyone knows, your knowledge would be much appreciated.

Well, tonight I finished the "demolition" of the tractor - it's all in pieces now. The tractor was previously powder coated and looked great, but as you can see it was mistakenly powder coated Chevy Engine orange. I want it to be red, so I am going to have to sand everything down, primer, and put a couple of coats of red on it.

I knew that I would have to drain the rear end, but I couldn't stand to just throw away my hy-tran. I still had some room left in the hy-tran jug, but it was not enough. So, being a little red-neckish, I put it in red solo cups. I have had bad experiences in the past with oil-based substances eating through the cups, hence the placement on the oil pan.



I had been wondering about how to empty the transaxle so that I would work on it. I determined that after taking the hydro pump off, I could use the suction tube as a drain. Worked pretty slick. If you look real hard, you can see the engine on the right hand side. If you've nver picked one up (or it's been a while), I'll say they're still heavy.



Here are all of the parts waiting to be sanded - this is definately going to be the time consuming part.



Till next time,

Nate
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics
IH 982
Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind
50C Deck
42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade
41" IH Rear Blade
QA42A Snowthrower
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  #14  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:37 PM
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I like the Chevy orange thinking that when I refurb mine I may just go right on ahead bad paint it Clemson orange and white...with maybe some of the purple as accents...
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2012, 08:59 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Nate that does look a little off. Have you thought about having it sand blasted at a body shop?

Awesome pics! Thank you!
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2012, 11:22 AM
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Thanks for the pics, Nate.
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2012, 11:49 AM
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Duke,

I had thought about that, but I previously had a blade sand blasted and was not that pleased with the surface results. I'm not sure if it was sand or bead blasted, but it seemed to leave a very rough surface, similar to sand paper. This may be normal, but at the time (and still) I am not sure that the paint will come out smooth. I'm not sure if sand blasting is rough, while bead blasting may be give a little smoother of a finish. Either way, I do believe that the powder coating would provide a good base coat between the metal and primer, even though it would take some extensive prep work. I guess a good question would be: is the rough finish normal after sand blasting, and, if so, will I be able to apply paint in a nice, even finish?

Nate
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics
IH 982
Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind
50C Deck
42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade
41" IH Rear Blade
QA42A Snowthrower
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2012, 02:13 PM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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The powder really needs to be either chemically stripped or burnt off. Best thing I can tell you to do is see if you can do a seach for a near by place that does that stuff. Or contact you local powdercoaters and ask them if they no of any businesses in the area that can strip it that way. I know all of this because it's what I've done for a living for the last 4 years. I work in a burn off shop that also does some little chem-stripping. Or at least I work there until this coming Tuesday. I start a new job in 2 weeks doing heat treating.

AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2012, 02:14 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog784 View Post
Duke,

I had thought about that, but I previously had a blade sand blasted and was not that pleased with the surface results. I'm not sure if it was sand or bead blasted, but it seemed to leave a very rough surface, similar to sand paper. This may be normal, but at the time (and still) I am not sure that the paint will come out smooth. I'm not sure if sand blasting is rough, while bead blasting may be give a little smoother of a finish. Either way, I do believe that the powder coating would provide a good base coat between the metal and primer, even though it would take some extensive prep work. I guess a good question would be: is the rough finish normal after sand blasting, and, if so, will I be able to apply paint in a nice, even finish?

Nate
Nate, I should have some powder coated pics next week once they are done. They are going to be sand blasted right before powder coating. I think with paint you need a sanded surface but I'm not expert at paint.
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  #20  
Old 05-09-2012, 04:36 PM
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red56turbo red56turbo is offline
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Looking good on the 982 refurb!! Keep the pics coming. On the calipers, on the IH built tractors, the rearends were red so the calipers would have been painted red. On the later ones built by CCC, the rearends were black, both cast and aluminum, so the calipers would have been black. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Diesel Cub Cadets...........
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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