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  #11  
Old 02-28-2012, 09:53 AM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Quote:
I'm not sure if hose clamp will work long term.
Nope, not a hose clamp. I didn't want a lot of wieght but it needed to be pretty solid so instead of a 1 1/4 muffler clamp, I used a regular U-clamp from Lowe's. It wraps around the pipe to help seal and secure it, and, it clamps on much more than a hose clamp could ever hope to.

I used a pair of "bushings" on the inside of the pipe because I didn't want to cut slits in it. That only allows for exhaust leaks, soot and whatnot. This way, it seals tightly around the first pipe and doesn't weigh a lot or look too clunky. I have to trim the threaded sections of the clamp yet. It squeezes down tight enough on the outer pipe just enough that it seals it and secures it. Again, light, but it works and doesn't look too bad. There are two types of drain pipe. One has a flange where the nut slides over the pipe (which is what I used) and secures it with the flange. The other type would have threads on the area where I've got the clamp, where a pipe would go inside of it and the nut threads onto the pipe in the area where I've got the clamp. To keep it clean, the pipe with the flange is the way to go, IMHO.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:51 AM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Nice score on your good looking O!
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2012, 05:08 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C5rider View Post
Nope, not a hose clamp. I didn't want a lot of wieght but it needed to be pretty solid so instead of a 1 1/4 muffler clamp, I used a regular U-clamp from Lowe's. It wraps around the pipe to help seal and secure it, and, it clamps on much more than a hose clamp could ever hope to.

I used a pair of "bushings" on the inside of the pipe because I didn't want to cut slits in it. That only allows for exhaust leaks, soot and whatnot. This way, it seals tightly around the first pipe and doesn't weigh a lot or look too clunky. I have to trim the threaded sections of the clamp yet. It squeezes down tight enough on the outer pipe just enough that it seals it and secures it. Again, light, but it works and doesn't look too bad. There are two types of drain pipe. One has a flange where the nut slides over the pipe (which is what I used) and secures it with the flange. The other type would have threads on the area where I've got the clamp, where a pipe would go inside of it and the nut threads onto the pipe in the area where I've got the clamp. To keep it clean, the pipe with the flange is the way to go, IMHO.
That will work great sorry for the confusion.
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  #14  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:05 AM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Default Wanna double the price of your Cub? !!!!

Just for giggles today, I decided to do some pricing for some items that I would like for my new Cub. I went to Cub Cadet's site and started clicking away. Keeping in mind that there were only seven items in my cart. Here's the list:

spark plug wire
battery retainer strip
regulator
fuel tank
key
shifter knob
flex coupling disc (end of driveshaft disc)

At $393.18 (subtotal), the cost of those SEVEN (7) items cost MORE than the TRACTOR that I purchased!!!!

I know, don't buy into something and then complain about the cost. And really, I'm not. Well, okay, I AM but only as a point of interest. I'm not really perterbed about it because I'll find these parts in time, or figure out a way to eventually replace them. The fuel tank and the regulator wound up the most money and I already bought one closer to home for about half of what they're asking. Quick, Cheap or Good -- pick two. I rarely go for "quick".

Still liking that little tractor!
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  #15  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:51 AM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C5rider View Post
Just for giggles today, I decided to do some pricing for some items that I would like for my new Cub. I went to Cub Cadet's site and started clicking away. Keeping in mind that there were only seven items in my cart. Here's the list:

spark plug wire
battery retainer strip
regulator
fuel tank
key
shifter knob
flex coupling disc (end of driveshaft disc)

At $393.18 (subtotal), the cost of those SEVEN (7) items cost MORE than the TRACTOR that I purchased!!!!

I know, don't buy into something and then complain about the cost. And really, I'm not. Well, okay, I AM but only as a point of interest. I'm not really perterbed about it because I'll find these parts in time, or figure out a way to eventually replace them. The fuel tank and the regulator wound up the most money and I already bought one closer to home for about half of what they're asking. Quick, Cheap or Good -- pick two. I rarely go for "quick".

Still liking that little tractor!
Don't forget about our sponsors at the top of each page. They will usually have everything you will need at a cost less than cub cadet. One thing you will have to remember, is that anything you buy new from Cub is going to cost some high $$$$. But another thing you have to remember, is that, once mechanically sound, these cubs will last another 40 years and you still won't have near as much money invested in it as you would a 2 year mower from your local supplier.
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  #16  
Old 03-03-2012, 02:16 PM
happyhab happyhab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C5rider View Post
My son and I picked up a 1715 a while back and we've been working on that for some time. I just picked up a mower deck today and planning on using it to keep the weeds at bay throughout the summer.

We went to a tractor show here in Central FL. and we came across a '62 Original, just waiting for someone to take him home. We worked out a price that was good for both parties and we loaded 'er up!

The previous owner said he:

Changed the voltage regulator and put on a new starter/generator. It has brand new AG tires (still has nubs on them) and he installed a pulling spring on the clutch and gave us the original one. It also has a larger pulley for the engine in case we want to go faster. It has a 10hp Kohler in it now, in place of the original 7hp. He said that he bought it so he and his son could pull with it. Then, they found a 70. He said he just rebuilt the rear with new bushings and seals. It has fenders and runs and drives great!

There are a few bugs to work out. It wasn't charging when we got it home. I checked the wiring and the blue wire was mated with the yellow wire on the Field terminal, instead of the Armature post. I moved it and when I grounded the Field terminal, it started charging. I noticed that the generator was getting pretty warm, so I was glad to see that it did start charging again.

I went through the tractor and found a bunch of loose fasteners and, it had a galvanized pipe exhaust. I HAD to get rid of that ugly exhaust! it has a few oiil leaks so gaskets are in order. I'm actually thinking of a re-power with a V-twin. We're not going to be mowing or anything so, I'm thinking of just using the crankshaft instead of the front of the engine on the V-twin. I know that will change the rotation of the engine but, I read somewhere that you can swap the differentials around to restore the proper direction again. Anyone know about this for sure?

Anyways, I KNOW that if there aren't any photos, it didn't happen. So, I'll be getting some tomorrow to feed the need for photas. More to come tomorrow!
Regarding which way to install your Vtwin, our preference was to install it opposite of the red 'O' above to free up the PTO for future use. Who knows, you may change your mind down the road and want to run a hyd pump or some such. I also feel it looks better 'our' way, having the fan shroud showing rather than the opposite side of the motor which isn't visually appealing in my humble opinion. Our 14hp Vtwin did not have a (crankshaft) roller bearing on the fan side, just a pressure lubricated bushing/bearing, but there is very little load from the drive belt so I think it will last.

By the way, that red 'O' above is of the chain. I would love to see more pics and here a little more about it. T'would be nice to have that kind of budget!
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:31 PM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Quote:
I would love to see more pics and here a little more about it.
Agreed!

That is true DX3. I'll have to check out some of the sponsors for some of the items. There's just a few little things that really should get some attention. I'll start there. And, your point is well taken that once they are gone through, they're many times better quality than what the big-box stores carry. And, might I add, more fun too!

That's why we've got the 1715 AND the Original.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:19 PM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Been working on the Original a little bit. Fixing little things that were left undone when the previous owner had it.

I did some body work on the hood and filled in the gaping hole that someone cut in it for whatever reason. They also tried to fill in the hole that was cut for a gas tank (?) at one time.

I think it looks a lot better. Painted it white instead of off-white. I like it.

First pic is how I received it. After that is how it looks now. Not sure if the difference shows through in pix but, it LOOKS a LOT better in person.
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:20 PM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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And another
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:27 PM
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PaulS PaulS is offline
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Really good looking "O". Ours has a long way to go before looking that good.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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