1450 Rear End Broken bolt. (Tiller installation)

[Jrobert]

Okay here is an update. I've gotten no where. I bought more reverse bits. Nothing is drilling into this bolt. The bolt that broke off wasn't the grade 8. It was the factory bolt. Having the worst time getting a hole started in the bolt. Tried a few bits and dont seem to be doing anything. I am sure the cast iron threads are still OK since I have been extremely careful. I am heading to ace now to pick up some more bits. Maybe a long metal cutter with the round head.

I figure that extractor tip is probably why I cant drill the stud anymore. So if I can grind that out (in reverse) Hopefully I will be able to get the reverse bit to grab and it should come out. I didnt go crazy trying to tighten the bolt, and it was free before it broke.

I partly blame me for trying the easy out kit at Menards. Yet, why did they give me regular drill bits with the extractor? If they gave me the reverse drill bits in the kit I would never had to use their inferior easy out tool.

And it wasnt that bad of a leak either, this morning it finally decided to start leaking. A pinkish river all the way out my garage. Should I order a gasket to replace? Seems like the original owner used form a gasket. I may just get a rubber gasket then form a gasket do to layers at the bottom and bot the gearbox for the tiller back on. And check that fluid more often.

How many quarts am I going to need to completely refill the hydro? And where do I add the fluid? That top bolt in the diff? Looks to be 3/8th plug.

Also I noticed my hydro fan had two broken off sections, ordered a new one. Are these a nightmare to install? I haven't looked it up in the service manual yet to see if they describe the process yet.


Thanks All. I can't wait to put my tractor back to work. Time to plow and till.

[cub123]

Would replace the gasket if your going to refill the rearend. The hydro holds about 7 quarts fill it up to the plug hole on the diff cover. The fan should be an easy fix, pull the tunnel cover, remove the rag joint(might as well replace it as well) drive out the roll pin and remove the end from the driveshaft and slide the fan on.

[Jrobert]

Guy at ace sold me a titanium bit. Didn't do anygood. Sat there a good 10 minutes trying to drill. Am I going to have to find a new rear end? I dont think anybody will be able to heli coil it with part of that extractor in there. Any magic bit I am missing to make this easier?

[Jeff in Pa]

Can you post a picture of how it looks right now?

Part of your problem is the easyout is hardened more than a drill bit.

Do you have a die grinder or dremel tool?

[CADplans]

A carbide drill bit will drill that broken extractor.

You probably need to have the rear end set up in a drill press to use a carbide bit, they break like glass.

A carbide burr will also remove the hardened extractor, again extreme care must be used.

But why not;

"Weld a nut to it and turn the broken stud out while it is still hot."

?? -

[CCSuperMan]

Originally Posted by CADplans

A carbide drill bit will drill that broken extractor.

You probably need to have the rear end set up in a drill press to use a carbide bit, they break like glass.

A carbide burr will also remove the hardened extractor, again extreme care must be used.

But why not;

"Weld a nut to it and turn the broken stud out while it is still hot."

?? -

From a machinists viewpoint ...............

The carbide drill will walk and break instantly . Mount the rear and peck it with a 2 flute flat bottom CARBIDE end mill . OR .............take it to the machine shop and have it EDMd out .

As far as tools ....................good tools ain't cheap , and cheap tools ain't good . Horrible Freight and box store tools aren't worth the dollar you spend on them . My time is money !!!

When you really think about , your Cubs are your tools . Why do we spend our time , money and energy rebuilding these old machines ??? Because it beats the heck outta buying a POS box store tractor yearly and throwin it to the scrap man !!! (or , cuz it's a neat hobby in my case) !! Jus sayin . the box store tractors !!

[Jrobert]

Yes, I did try a few carbide bits, and they sure do break like glass!

The bolt is broken about 1/4-1/2" bellow flush after drilling before the extractor tool. So welding a nut on is outta the question.

Yes~ I do have a dremel tool.

I will take a few photos in the morning.

And yes, I got this tractor so it would last me a lifetime. We have a nursery and got the tiller so I could save my back. ( We were using one of them big 80's Troy Built tillers.)

[CCSuperMan]

Originally Posted by Jrobert

Yes, I did try a few carbide bits, and they sure do break like glass!

The bolt is broken about 1/4-1/2" bellow flush after drilling before the extractor tool. So welding a nut on is outta the question.

Yes~ I do have a dremel tool.

I will take a few photos in the morning.

And yes, I got this tractor so it would last me a lifetime. We have a nursery and got the tiller so I could save my back. ( We were using one of them big 80's Troy Built tillers.)

Thats trouble for sure . EDM might be your only answer now . They'll burn it out in 15 minutes so it may be worth the $$$$ .

[Leadslingingdaddy]

Ok from having this happen to me on many 'projects"...At least try this....

Take a small harden punch and see if you can walk it out tapping the punch CCW on the broken bolt....You may get lucky....Find a burr or make a ridge in the bolt so you have something to "bite" too...

[cadetfarmer]

Listen to CCSuperMan, he knows what he is talking about.

I have been down this road and tried all these repairs.

The easy outs (no matter how expensive) never work, trust I some that came off the Snap ON Truck and they don't work either.

Always start with the reverse drill bits, tne center punch or cape chisel trying to turn Counter Clockwise.

Weld a nut on if the bolt can be reached in any manner.

I have never used an EMD, but I have melted them out with a torch, be verrrrrrrrrrrrrryyyy careful or you will not have a casting left.

Good Luck, and you have my utmost simpathy;
Cadet Farmer