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#11
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I did not have to work this weekend so a friend of mine at work is going to help me. We are going to pull the tank and the carb and make sure the fuel pump is working. I was looking at it closer and the deck is shot. Lots of holes and rust. What I would like to do is put the 50" on the 1810 and get a correct year Haban 60" for my 1572. Thanks for all the help. It is nice to have people to bounce ideas off of.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#12
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I am going to work on the 1810 tomorrow. I have finally gotten all the small things done around the house. I bought a manual to make sure the governors are set right, but I was just on ebay and had a quick question. I found a seller that has parted out a 1811 and was wandering what was common with mine. I have a Warbro and this is a Kohler. Would I need the intake and all the other springs and arms. I just though someone might have done this before. i know the Kohlers are adjustable and the Warbro is not. Is it worth the 100 bucks or so?
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#13
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I prefer the Kohlers over the non-adjustable Walbros. I do have an adjustable Walbro, I didn't know they made them. A $100 price tag seems a little steep, but both these tractors use a Kohler 18 Mag, so the carbs are interchangeable with no modifications.
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CCC 784 w/ Triple Hydraulics IH 982 Cub Cadet Commercial H1748 Walk-Behind 50C Deck 42" Hydraulic Angle Front Blade 41" IH Rear Blade QA42A Snowthrower |
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#14
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$100 for a carb is crazy. The last one i bought cost me around $25 on ebay. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for one.
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned |
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#15
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I did not buy it. Thanks for the advice.
I have been fighting my computer all afternoon, finally got it fixed.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#16
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I got a little shop time in this weekend and started working on some Cubs. I got this thing running somewhat. It will start and then imminently goes to WOT. I got my 1811 out and compared the governors and something is not right with 1810. The 1811 arm is not tight or hard to move and 1810 is very rigid. I do not have any throttle control at all. I have a service manual and the next time I get some shop time I am going to look at it further. My question now is a tear down in order to get the engine running correctly?
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#17
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What Matt said!!!!!
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#18
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It is part governor and throttle connection. I went out and compared it with the 1811 more closely and the throttle connection is out of sorts. I am going to try and get it going in a weekend or two.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#19
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If it has a mechanical fuel pump that's the first thing I would check. Also regardless of type of fuel pump remove the hose after pump some where to make sure it's pumping, and if you plan on keeping it the hose is always one of the first things I replace while giving the gas tank a good cleaning. The walboro carb is not as horrible on these as I have read them to be.
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#20
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Quote:
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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