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  #11  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:22 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Originally Posted by inboardnut View Post
I was surprised when I swiped my finger thru the oil that it felt as thick as it was. You can see in the one pic where I left a mark in it.

I'm wondering why it even overflowed at all? From what I understand, the tiller had not been used for a few years. It was stored inside. Maybe wrong oil, maybe water? Either way the gearbox and chain case are getting changed this weekend. Is 90 wt gear lube right for both?

I can tell you I am going to love this once I get it going! It pulverizes the soil!
Pressure washers have a habbit of doing that, putting water in things that shouldn't have water in them.
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:45 PM
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I think we have an idea to make an adapter to mount the cat "1" center link to the tractor without cutting either the original tractor mounts or the center link.

stay tuned, we'll see how this plays out..
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:00 AM
Iowa Farmboy Iowa Farmboy is offline
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A few of you know I got my "new to me" tiller home last night. I pressure washed it and mounted it to the 1772.

It has a bent hitch arm that needs to be straightened and I need to move the tiller back /or shorten the PTO shaft. It doesnt track straight behind the tractor and there is no play in the shaft. The cat"0" center link from the Cub is not long enough to reach the tiller, so I had to "red-neck" the cat "1" link that came with the tiller for now. I think I am going to cut the center link hookup flanges off the Cub and widen the brackets to accept the link that came with the tiller.

I took it out to re-till my garden, after tilling for a few minutes, it was leaking a "white oil" form the gearbox. (like the oil has water mixed in it.)

Plans are to change the fluids in it this weekend and maybe get time to adjust the mounts.. Overall, so far, it works great!

Here are some pics of the oil and hitch hook up. Any thoughts?
I may be way off, but I'm thinking that the point were the lower two links are connected look wrong. I'm thinking the tiller should be closer to the tractor. It look like there is extensions on the lower mounts that need to be removed. And by doing so would move your third like much closer to the tractor also.

Loving the 1772, wish I had one let alone one that nice!
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1989 SGT 2072 (restored)
60"Haban Deck, 54 "Haban Blade, 48" Cub Cadet Tiller, 12" Brinly Cat O plow, 48" Cat O landscape rake
Cub 128 with creeper and rear PTO with reverser(next project)
IH built 682 and 782 that will combine to make one
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  #14  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:51 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inboardnut View Post
I think we have an idea to make an adapter to mount the cat "1" center link to the tractor without cutting either the original tractor mounts or the center link.

stay tuned, we'll see how this plays out..
There is a long version of the cat0 top link out there. I seen them for sale when I was buying my top link for the 1864.
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  #15  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:18 AM
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inboardnut inboardnut is offline
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Thanks for all the input so far. I found an operators manual and am anxious to read it when I get a chance. It has info on tiller mount adjustment.

Does anyone know how to drain the oil out of the gearbox? I looked quickly last night, but didnt notice any drain plugs.
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  #16  
Old 05-23-2012, 12:14 PM
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I agree with everyone else. Sweet tiller pics!!!

The left (when looking from the rear) 3 point arm does look backwards. Swap that around. I also agree with IowaFarmboy. Pull the extensions off the lower arms of the tiller and hook directly onto the tiller. That might help the Cat O toplink work. Some implements were Cat O or Cat 1. Adding an extension would be the different between the two Cats. Sure am jealous you found that gem.
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2012, 01:00 PM
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Thanks again for all the input! I think we are going to try an adapter plate to mount on the tractor and go from there. If I pull the tiller closer, I will definitely have to cut the PTO shaft. I might have to cut a couple inches as it is.

Not to bore anyone, A few might know the story behind the 1772. This tractor has been a blessing in disguise to me. The Cub is technically my mothers. My father bought it a couple years old, from the original owner during his divorce. (he still wants to buy it back someday) Unfortunately, my dad passed away 4 years ago.

I use the Cub weekly to mow my mothers yard. At first it was "just" a way to keep me from trailering my mower to her house. This spring while changing oil on the 1772(and after tilling our garden with a walk behind) it hit me to start looking for a 3pt tiller. I have only been looking for a month or so.

Last weekend at our daughters house in Milwaukee, I was checking CL before anyone else was up on sunday morning. The FIRST tiller that came up was this one! ( keep in mind I have been checking CL all month). It was only 10 minutes out of our way back home..so we made arrangemants to stop and look. After seeing it, we paid for it and had my son-in-law bring a truck to get it to a "safe" location.

I ended up running back up there Monday afternoon to pick it up. (my wife wouldnt let me put it in the back of our Transport??? LOL) .. I do look forward to getting the little bugs worked out of the tiller.

As for the 1772, I'm on the "first to buy" list....someday, when my mom moves to a smaller home, the Cub will find its home in my barn!
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2012, 03:33 PM
Methos Methos is offline
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There is a long version of the cat0 top link out there. I seen them for sale when I was buying my top link for the 1864.
This top link goes out as far as 13"-19" to the center of the holes. Some only got out to 15".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRACTOR-3-PO...item45ecf703f6
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2012, 07:06 PM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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Making a new threaded end is what I did for my 982. You can also make a entire new link. The tractor end is only a heim joint and the adjuster is only a tube with 2 nuts welded to it. The heim joint end is short enough that you really don't want to be adjusting the top link by turning the tube anyway.

AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:43 PM
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Got a little time to work on the tiller mount tonight. First thing I did was turn the left lift arm around. Sure looks better from the back.

But, Looks like I will need to cut off about 3" of the PTO shaft. That was the main reason the tiller was being forced to the right. In one pic you can see the white soapstone mark where it will probably be cut.

Next will be a trip to Farm & Fleet or TSC to see if I can find a longer cat "0" center link .


Looks like I will have to pull the gearbox off the tiller to drain and flush it out. I do not see a drain plug.

.......getting closer!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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