Alternator Problems HELP!!!!

[Rhoderman]

Hi Matt,
I think the brown wire is for the alternator light, but since you have a meter, this may not be. Still, there might be battery light in the dash.
Try either pulling it to ground through your test light, or apply battery power through your test light. Your test light will protect you from killing something with a dead short, and should be enough to light up the dash indicator.
I love working on vehicles myself, and being an Electrical Engineer, the electronic junk doesn't scare me much any more. It is a different working on stuff you just can't see though.
Good Luck!
Jim

[Cub61]

Good morning Jim!!!! How's it going good buddy!!!!

Well Jim, I did exactly what you said to do. I fed the brown wire some battery power through my Test Light and the Alternator came to life right off the back. I wanted to make sure the whole length of the brown wire was good and didn't have short in it. So what I did was I followed the brown wire all the way to the firewall where it goes into the back of the fuse box. And I applied the battery power to the brown wire right at the very end of it. And the Alternator fired up. So with that in mind, that tells me that the problem is not within the Brown wire itself outside in the engine compartment. Apparently the problem is somewhere in the cockpit area under the Dashboard. I tried to locate a fuse or maybe a resistor that GM could have used in place of a Indicator light. But I couldn't find anything. So here's my question. Does your GM book talk about a Resistor or a Fuse that was used in place of a Indicator Light???? If not, what would be the proper way to rewire the Brown Wire so we can get the Alternator to fire up again???? Thanks for your time Jim!!!! My Dad and I really do appreciate it. Have yourself a great day!!!!


MATT

[Rhoderman]

Matt, I'm about 12 hours driving from my book right now. We're on vacation.
You might try asking your question on one of the Chevy truck message boards, or maybe even searching.
I'll poke around on the 'net when I get a chance and post anything I find that might help.
Jim


Matt, from what I found, it sounds like your bulb might be out. See this link at the bottom.
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html
You probably do have a bulb in your dash. Get a bright flash light and look for the battery looking symbol from outside the dash. Then, try to find that same location from underneath. The bulb is probably a 193 if memory serves. Good luck with it. All this over a silly light bulb? Geez, I hope not... Another thing might be to check to see if there is a battery looking red indicator when you turn the key on w/o starting it. If said light is there and lights up, you're on the wrong track. If you see no light, but someone else with a similar year truck (88-93?) has the light, that might help you find it.

Good Luck Matt!

[Cub61]

Good morning everyone!!!! How's everyone doing this morning????

Well as you all know my Dad and I have been working on his suburban for the past weeks now. And we have found another problem. As you all know, we have lost fire on the Brown Wire coming from the Two Prong Plug coming from the Alternator. From my understanding 12Volts of fire should be flowing through that Brown Wire once the Key in turned to the "ON" Position. And that's where the problem begins. We don't have 12Volts of fire flowing through there once the Key is turned to the "ON" Position.

Here's where it gets a little confusing. We followed that Brown Wire coming from the Two Prong Plug that's hooked up to the Alternator, that Brown wire lead us to the cockpit of the truck all the way inside and under the Dash Board. We found out that Brown Wire is hooked up directly to the Volt Gauge. From there a Pink and Black Wire leaves directly from the Volt Gauge and goes straight into the Front of the fuse box into a section that's labeled "IGNITION". I tried looking for a burnt out fuse or maybe a Resistor. But I couldn't find anything. I'm beginning to think our problem may be located somewhere within the upper part of the Steering Column. What do you guys think???? Thank guys!!!!

MATT

[Merk]

Matt,
The wires going to the "joy stick" (turn singal-bright dim switch) as I call it are very thin. The wires do break if you move the tilt wheel very much. I lost the rear tail lights on one of my cars because of a broken wire. Don't be surprise to find a broken wire on the joy stick.

[Rhoderman]

Merk and Matt,

The ignition switch on these beasts is up on top of the column on the part that doesn't move (tilt). There is a stiff rod coming down from the key switch. You can remove a few screws and lift the whole switch off the pin (L-shaped rod). Then, unplug it and slap a new one in there from either a parts store or a junk yard.

It is very possible the pink wire isn't getting power at the switch. Pink is color code for IGN on a GM vehicle.

You did say the voltmeter worked though. Something don't seem right.

Also, this doesn't explain why it goes dead while sitting.

I wish I lived closer, I'd have it fixed before suppertime.

Jim

[Cub61]

Hey Jim,Dale!!! How's it going guys!!!

Originally Posted by Jim

It is very possible the pink wire isn't getting power at the switch. Pink is color code for IGN on a GM vehicle.

You did say the voltmeter worked though. Something don't seem right.

Also, this doesn't explain why it goes dead while sitting.

Jim the Voltmeter is working, but it only comes to life when I push 12volts of battery power through the Brown wire that goes to the Alternator with my test light and that's when it shows you how much the alternator is pushing out to the battery. And you can also here the Alternator come to life too just as soon as I manually push 12volts to it. You can here a very very slight squealing sound coming from the Alternator as it's rotating. Which is a normal sound. And the engine also feels the load of the the Alternator too as soon as the Alternator comes to life, it slows down the low idle of the engine. But as soon as I remove my test light from the brown wire and stop pushing 12volts through it. The light squealing sound coming from the alternator stops and the engine revs up a little and the Voltmeter is no longer ready what the Alternator is putting out. So with all this in mind, I'm beginning to think that a wire came loose or it broke off from the Ignition switch. Everything works just fine on this Suburban, it's just the Alternator we just can't get it to fire up with the Key. As for the battery draining out on its own while being parked. I'm also beginning to think that it might be the Alternator also. Maybe it's taking in fire from the Solenoid??? What do you think???

MATT

[Rhoderman]

Hey Matt,
Try to find the fuse named GA (Gauge) in your fuse block. It should be a 20A in the upper left corner. I think it might be blown.
Jim