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  #11  
Old 02-24-2013, 08:09 AM
Jumper Jumper is offline
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nailpounder: Make sure you check out epay and the for sale section here once in a while too, sometimes you can find a deal that will fit your budget.
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  #12  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:07 AM
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aagitch aagitch is offline
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I enjoy seeing a cub cadet brought back from the dead. As was mentioned, the Deestones would be a good pick for rear ags if you're on a tight budget. I had a set on a former cub cadet of mine and they held up just fine and plowed well. You can get a pair for about 111.00
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:25 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nailpounder View Post
So I got it running but I was noticing some racket from the front of the engine, the dipstick was jumping around and there was oil sprayed under the hood. Pulled the dipstick and there was tons of blow-by. Is it possible to do the rings and hone the cylinder without a total tear-down? Is there a source for a new fuel tank shutoff valve that doesn't cost $35?

The engine was held down with one remaining bolt. The bushing metal sleeves are wasted, is there a source for new ones? Does anyone sell an "improved" engine mount or do I have to build my own?

The hydro had less than a gallon of fluid in it and it smells a lot like gear oil. It seemed to run great! Besides a fluid and filter change is there anything else I should do to it besides a total rebuild?

And then there's tires. I want to put the lug ag type tires on it. Are Deestones any good? Any other recommendations on brand? I'm on a severe budget unfortunately.
Thanks

Take a look at the breather on the side of the block, it could be plugged up
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  #14  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:28 PM
bkw3614 bkw3614 is offline
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I have a 1250 as well and I think it is a wonderful tractor, although I often call it my Nightmare, because it confounds me on occasion.

This tractor is part of the Quietline series, and they have their own little set of quirks. As long as your engine is sitting on the table, it would be wise to replace the ISO mounts, because that will save your oil pan, and a lot of wear on the rest of the drive train. There is a modification for your engine cradle that should be done, then the rubber ISO mounts should be replaced. Here is a link that explains the procedure. http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html New mounts are available at one of the sponsors above.

As for your gas tank, The external sediment bowl with shut-off won't work on that tractor. You need a new valve and screen that comes with it, and a new rubber grommet that fits in the tank to seal everything from leakage. The sponsors above will have them and here are the part numbers: Valve - IH-109042-C2 Grommet - 935-0149. I know you are concerned with cost, but this is a part that you don't want to scrimp on. Gasoline leaking on a hot engine could result in disaster.

As long as your engine is on the table, I would also recommend that you check your steering and front axle play. It is a lot easier to fix with the engine is out of the tractor. http://cubfaq.com/axlepivot.html

I agree with another poster, that Deestones are an excellent tire for the money. You can check Carlisle tires as well. They are a good tire at a fair price too.

It would be good to get that gear oil out of your transmission/differential, and change hydraulic filter. NAPA or a Cub Cadet dealer will have the correct filter, and it is highly recommended that you use CaseIH HyTran fluid. It takes seven quarts. If you have a CaseIH dealer near you and a couple of clean and dry 1 gallon jugs, the HyTran fluid is available in bulk, a lot cheaper than quarts at a Cub Cadet dealer. It would also be good to check to be sure the cooling fan place on the drive shaft. This fan helps to cool the Hydro change pump. It is an inexpensive and easy fix when the engine is out.

There things that you mention, such as the exhaust that you will want to fix later. A muffler box, a new, correct muffler and installing the side panels, a little bit of 935 white and 483 yellow, and you will have one sharp tractor!
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  #15  
Old 02-24-2013, 05:06 PM
nailpounder nailpounder is offline
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I have iso mounts on order and plan on the engine cradle mod. I got hydraulic/trans fluid at NAPA. The nearest Case/IH dealer is 45 miles away in a town I rarely go to. I have a hydro fan ordered since there is none, not even a trace of one on the driveshaft. As far as the quietline parts I'm missing, I probably won't go that far. It's not a restoration,but I could see it getting a total clean-up and repaint in the near future. Probably wouldn't replace the missing decals on cowl and hood but I do like the remaining black 'hockey stick' and international on there now. I need to get out to the garage and organize and clean parts so see ya!

Thanks for all the good input
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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