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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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Will do! Thanks!
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#12
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So, I was mowing yesterday, when the endbolt backed out of the middle spindle never to be seen again. I took an endbolt off of my 100's deck (has a loose spindle bearing) and put the 124's deck back together. Examining the lock washer under the endbolt (which is attached to the grease zerk) and found that the lock washer was cracked. I wonder if the other one was cracked also. The washers are close to 40 years old. Went to the store today and got new lock washers. Put the 124 deck back together. Used the impact wrench on the endbolt. Spindle feels fine. Now to rebuild the 100's deck and restore it in a few weeks.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#13
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Interesting! Good to know, so I can keep an eye on these things in the future!
I got a chance to get out and check the cub in the tall grass. Whenever the blades stop, the motor stays going normally, and the front PTO stops completely. That rules out blade looseness and belt slippage. The question is, why is the PTO stopping? It can even be short grass, but it I put the deck on any other setting other than the very top, it can't handle the load and the blades stop. Is it the PTO? More importantly, what causes a worn out PTO to do this? What part is actually failing? Thanks! |
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#14
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Two things come to mind. Maybe three. The fiber disk is worn. The triangular spring has lost its spring. The machine bolts are not tight enough and are not putting enough pressure on the spring. The metal clutch disk is worn and is too smooth (and maybe has been burned by a slipping fiber disk).
I suspect that the machine screws are too loose and have not been tightened enough. The template is used to make sure the PTO is tightened enough so it won't slip. Please read the PTO part of the Model 100 manual here in the tractor Technical Library. Its in the Model 100 manual on page 2 of the tractor technical library. I''d print it out, there is a wealth of excellent info here. Your PTO should not slip at all. It should bring the engine to its knees. Both of mine do. You can make a template following the instructions in the manual out of heavy card stock or cardboard. You might have grease on the fiber disk and on the pressure plates.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#15
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I lied. Go to the 124 manual instead, it has fine instructions for the PTO.
Also, you don't need a three jaw puller to take the PTO apart. Just loosen the jam nuts and nuts on the machine screws and it will come right apart.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#16
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When you buy a kit for your PTO, you get a new fiber disk, a new triangular spring, and a metal template.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#17
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Awesome info, as always! I guess I may as well rebuild the clutch. I've seen several different ones on the parts sites. Are they pretty much all the same regardless of the tractor model?
Also, I've heard that PTO bearings can be acquired at Advanced Auto for pretty cheap. Anyone know the part #? |
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#18
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Do I want style a or b?
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#19
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Got me. Are you talking about a single triangular spring or a double spring setup? You want a single spring setup for a narrow frame cub.
Did you get the setscrews out?
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#20
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I haven't got the set screws out yet. I'm going to rebuild the beater one that isn't stripped out. Here is the type a type b thing I saw on the parts website.
http://i.imgur.com/RyQeuvs.jpg |
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