1862 Problems

[R Bedell]

The Brake Lite is activated by the Reverse Switch.

The other two lights are activated by the Brake Switch and other switches (PTO & Ignition)

[FrankF3]

The 1862 wiring is running fine now. It is now developing a few new bug. When mowing with it on a hot day after about 2 hours, the ignition cuts out on it. My father replaced the ignition switch, but I am more leaning to a hot soak condition and the coil/ignition module going bad. Is this a common failure with the 18 HP magnums? BTW - if you leave it where ever it stopped for about 2 hours with the hood up, it will fire right up when you try starting it again. When it stopped, I put a little gas down the carb throat, not a single, pop, burp or backfire.

[Sam Mac]

You may want to pull the engine out and see if you have a bunch of crud blocking the air flow.

[123Pokey321]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

The 1862 wiring is running fine now. It is now developing a few new bug. When mowing with it on a hot day after about 2 hours, the ignition cuts out on it. My father replaced the ignition switch, but I am more leaning to a hot soak condition and the coil/ignition module going bad. Is this a common failure with the 18 HP magnums? BTW - if you leave it where ever it stopped for about 2 hours with the hood up, it will fire right up when you try starting it again. When it stopped, I put a little gas down the carb throat, not a single, pop, burp or backfire.

That is EXACTLY what my 1862 was doing and it was indeed the coil/ignition module. Not an overly expensive part (less than $45) but a bit of a biznatch to get to. You will need to move the engine forward in order to get the cowlings off of the back. It's pretty straight forward, just a lot of parts and a bit time consuming.

Going from memory, if I had to do it again it would go something like this:
- disconnect the throttle/choke cables
- disconnect the fuel line
- disconnect the starter wire
- unplug various other electrical connections
- take apart the forward universal (be careful not to let it fall apart)
- unbolt the 6 or so bolts that hold the motor mounting plate into the frame
- move the motor fwd or remove all together
- take off tins/cowlings
- remove and replace ignition unit
- set magnet gap (I think it's around 0.015 inch but I just used a couple layers of paper to determine what the gap for the old one was prior to removing it, then used the same number of layers of paper to set the gap on the new one. Remember to spin the engine over by hand to make sure there isn't any contact with the magnets on the flywheel.
- Reassemble in reverse order
- FIRE THAT PUPPY UP!
- Enjoy a frosty yeast and barley beverage for a job well done.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by 123Pokey321

That is EXACTLY what my 1862 was doing and it was indeed the coil/ignition module. Not an overly expensive part (less than $45) but a bit of a biznatch to get to. You will need to move the engine forward in order to get the cowlings off of the back. It's pretty straight forward, just a lot of parts and a bit time consuming.

Going from memory, if I had to do it again it would go something like this:
- disconnect the throttle/choke cables
- disconnect the fuel line
- disconnect the starter wire
- unplug various other electrical connections
- take apart the forward universal (be careful not to let it fall apart)
- unbolt the 6 or so bolts that hold the motor mounting plate into the frame
- move the motor fwd or remove all together
- take off tins/cowlings
- remove and replace ignition unit
- set magnet gap (I think it's around 0.015 inch but I just used a couple layers of paper to determine what the gap for the old one was prior to removing it, then used the same number of layers of paper to set the gap on the new one. Remember to spin the engine over by hand to make sure there isn't any contact with the magnets on the flywheel.
- Reassemble in reverse order
- FIRE THAT PUPPY UP!
- Enjoy a frosty yeast and barley beverage for a job well done.

Instructions are correct except for the CV joint, the engine end should slide off the splines of the drive shaft. So you should not need to take it apart. The end at the pump should have a snap ring on it to hold it in place.

[FrankF3]

BUT WAIT THERE"S MORE! I got yet another call last night about the 1862 with yet another problem. This time, (mind you I yet to dig into the ignition coil) there's an oil leak. This engine has developed multiple oil leaks in the past, once the crank seal behind the PTO, put in a new seal with form-a-gasket #2 to hold the seal n place. Another time by the adapter plate used to attach the remote oil filter - the screws for the plate loosened and the gasket underneath blew out. Replaced the gasket and torqued it all down to specs. I replaced the PCV?breather because that was supposed to be problematic and there was a new design. So, without getting to eyeball it yet, there must have been something else that let go causing engine oil to foul the mule drive belt and pulley. The belt is so oily that if you touch it you fingers look like they have tar on them. If you hold the mule belt from moving, you can turn the blades on the deck and the main drive pulley just spins with the belt wrapped around it with a properly adjusted mule drive tensioner.

[Sam Mac]

Frank

How many hours on this engine? Starting to sound like the tractor from H--L

[FrankF3]

Sam, the hour meter has 539 on it. I REALLY doubt if that is the correct time on it. My father is all ready to put a new belt on it, but with the oil leak, that wouldn't last one mowing and it would be ruined. Any other common sources of oil leaks on these engines, other than the leaks I've fixed already? If I have to pull the jugs off for an oil leak, I might as well re-ring it.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Sam, the hour meter has 539 on it. I REALLY doubt if that is the correct time on it. My father is all ready to put a new belt on it, but with the oil leak, that wouldn't last one mowing and it would be ruined. Any other common sources of oil leaks on these engines, other than the leaks I've fixed already? If I have to pull the jugs off for an oil leak, I might as well re-ring it.

I wouldn't get too bent out of shape till you can see it. It may be the front seal again, or even a remote oil filter hose. Shoot, maybe it was a little low on oil and dad over filled it..... Or, it could even be the power steering hand pump or lines. They could leak on the belt. Then the oil off the belt would sling it onto the front of the mule drive. Just go look at it when you get time and see where it is coming from. I'm sure it's fixable!