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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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Confirm that the brake pedal start switch is good, and then check the IGN switch.
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#12
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Just sent you a copy of the wiring diagram to your e-mail.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#13
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Ok men it won't crank using the key. It will crank and run if I use a jumper wire from the battery to s/g. The key will switch it off but will not crank it. So I did some disking today. I got my fix, but now I need to fix the 127. So it runs but will not idle as before I have to keep a little throttle for it to run and have to jump the s/g to crank it.I didn't have this issue before the harness was added. Oh yea one more thing my son broke the key so me being who I am shoved a key in that is similar I don't think this had any effect on my problem because he broke the key while trying to crank after the harness was installed.I can drive it.
T
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#14
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Is the key switch bad
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#15
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I would guess key switch. I'm going to see what the gang thinks.
THANKS
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#16
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Here is my 2 cents worth....
In the picture that you posted the gray and green wires are tied together with a post terminal. That post terminal normally goes on the negative side of the ammeter (charge indicator). The other end of the gray wire connects to the "bat" terminal of your voltage regulator. The other end of the green wire connects to the "bat" or (B) terminal of your key switch. Now normally when you turn your key switch from off to start or run, you are applying battery voltage to the other two terminals of your key switch which are "start" (or S) and "ignition" (or I). For anything to happen when you turn the key you have to have battery voltage on the "B" (or green wire). So you are probably saying "How can I have battery on the green wire when the other end is connected to the negative post of the ammeter"? And I would say to you "if you had an ammeter in there the other post, the positive one, would have a wire (probably red) going from it to the big lug on the starter solenoid, the same lug that the battery connects to. To simplify, 12 volts starts at battery positive side, to one side of the solenoid, to and thru the ammeter to B on the key switch. When you turn the key to start, B connects to S and I and you have liftoff...... PROBLEM....with no ammeter you have no 12v to B, no solenoid operation, no ignition, no liftoff. All an ammeter does is give you and indication of how much current is flowing through a wire in one direction or another by taking a sample of the total current that is going through it, so in reality it is just a straight piece of wire with some circuitry inside to do the sampling. So the simplest thing to try at this point is just connect the gray/green terminal in your picture to the + term of you battery and I predict liftoff. If not, look for voltage on the little (center) terminal of the solenoid while holding the key to the start position. If no voltage there pull the connector off the safety switch and short the plug connectors with a paper clip. If still no voltage it has to be key switch. If you have voltage on the little terminal of the solenoid while holding the key to start and it does not click, the solenoid switch may be bad. Good luck. |
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