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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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I went out and bought a testing light. I believe my problem is the starter solenoid which I have already taken off and in the process broke one of the poles off. I had power on the top post that runs to the positive side of the batter. The side post I couldn't get anything and I know the key has to be turned which is what I did but nothing. I didn't get anything on the bottom post either. So power was going in but not back out. I'm off and on my way to get a new solenoid but can someone please confirm that it was the problem? Thank you all very much. My friends and family think I'm crazy for being so interested in these old tractors but it's great to see old iH cub enthusiasts as myself. Much to learn.
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#12
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New starter solenoid on. It cranks over by the turn of the key now!!!!!
that's a success in my book. But now I have checked I'm not getting spark. Both poles on the coil are hot. They are getting power to them. I stuck the tip of my test light in the plug wire and tried to turn it over and it's not lighting up so I'm guessing that means I'm not getting any power to spark. Time for new coil? So far in the last 2 days I have dropped nearly $200 into this project. My pockets aren't much deeper as I am a college student
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#13
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The coil will have positive on both sides until a negative is given through the closure of the points. If you have a test light the pos side of the coil should remain lit constant and while cranking and the negative side should flash. If neg side doesn't flash its time to check points.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#14
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Quote:
Clean your points. |
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#15
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I cleaned the points. Still no spark from the plug wire. I'm guessing it has to be a bad coil...
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#16
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Don't guess. Did you check to see if they are grounding with your test light? Did you ohm the coil? Did you clean the points with a file, sandpaper or equivalent?
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#17
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I cleaned the points with a file and the points are sparking. Power to both poles on the coil with my test light. I don't know how to ohm something. What settings to use and what not.
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#18
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Start by doing this:
Put the test light on the neg (-) post of the coil. (The wire that runs to the points.) Hook the other end of the test light to ground. Roll the engine over by hand while holding the test light on the coil. When the points close, the light should go off. Do this and report the results. |
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#19
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Okay so I know I'm getting spark now. I had the coil hooked up back wards. I'm getting spark. Still won't start. So now I'm going to check for compression. I'm guessing the carb will need rebuilt. Or at least cleaned up. I haven't touched it.
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#20
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It's not getting fuel so I took the carb back off and I'm trying to clean it. Any help?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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