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#11
09-28-2013, 10:24 PM
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Well...... it really sounds like you did everything correctly. Its hard to say what caused the failure. I understand your frustration though. We overhauled a motor last year, it didn't make it 200 miles and spun a rod. Tore it down and could not find any reason for the failure. Sent the block and the crank to my regrinder just to see if he could find anything that we didn't. He told me it was a perfect rebuild. We labeled the failure as "block contamination". Our assumption was there was metal or dirt that was stuck in an oil galley. I have overhauled/rebuilt over 100 engines in the last 15 years. It was the first one I ever had that failed. So, sometimes, even when you do everything right, something goes wrong. Tear your motor down, you may find that is was just a freak or even a part failure that had nothing to do with you.
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#12
10-01-2013, 06:23 PM
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well i got the engine out and opened up the bottom end first. rod is toast. all kinds of galled aluminum on the crank. as you can see in the pic the hole is twords the cam. the only think i can think of is that the nuts loosened up. i torqued them to kohlers spec for new posi-lock rods. when i got the crank and rod back from the machineshop the rod was installed on the crank. now im wondering if they torqued them there too and if i should have used the "used" torque value. they make it a point in the manual that says do not over torque, loosen and retorque the posi lock rods. im pretty sure my cylinder will need to be rebored to .030 now. there are lots of score marks where aluminum got onto the skirt and scored my walls. most are not bad but i think its more than a kiss from a hone will take out. there are quite a few that are below the crosshatch. i know kohler doesnt do a .020 under rod but i found one on the net http://shop.kustomlawnandgarden.com/...-NEW-ROD21.htm and there is one on ebay too. dont know about how good these rods are though, better than mine for sure. id hate to buy a rod just to put bearings in it.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood.
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#13
10-01-2013, 09:53 PM
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OUCH! That sucks! Was the crank turned at the machine shop? Did they tighten them to much then loosen them then re-torque them? Was it hard to turn over before you started it? I wonder did they not turn the crank enough and it was to tight once the engine got hot? or maybe the rod was not machined correctly? I'd think if it was to loose it would have broke the rod not galled it?
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! 
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#14
10-01-2013, 10:36 PM
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I agree. I think it was over tightened.
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#15
10-02-2013, 05:13 AM
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did the shop assemble the shortblock? i would see if they will make good on it if they did
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cub cadet 71 that my pop pop got new and gave me in 85......restoration just started cub cadet 100......was a friends grandfathers, given to me in 93.. restoration almost finished cub cadet 72, 150 dollar craigslist find, 38" deck, worker cub cadet 127 basketcase, my dad bought in 84 cub cadet 71 beauty (formerly johncub7172's) cub cadet 123, craigslist find   
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#16
10-02-2013, 09:37 AM
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the machine shop ground the crank and bored the block. when i got the crank back the rod was attached to it. of course i took that off so i could reassemble everything. i do not know what they torqued to to at there shop. i torqued it to teh new measurements of the manual with a calibrated CDI torque wrench. a shop did not assemble the block, i did. so i will be making good on getting new parts. the assembly seemed to turn over nice.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood.
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#17
10-02-2013, 11:49 AM
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I would use lubriplate assembly lube this time when you put it back together. I would also use a break in oil such as Brad Penn or an equivalent with a high zinc content. Just my 2cents.
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1641, 1541, 682 with 18hp command engine and hydraulics from a 782. 1872 with a power angle blade.
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#18
10-02-2013, 02:31 PM
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Let me make a suggestion..
I would remove the aluminum from the rod journal with muric acid as I've read on this forum and then polish it well. You can go aftermarket or factory on rod. I would use factory and get someone to machine it for bearing inserts which are from a continental engine ~15 bucks for the inserts. Aftermarket rod will work only with old style piston- not the Mahle. I'd measure where the score marks really start- if they are only where the skirt runs, you can just hone it lightly. It's the area where the piston rings travel which is of concern and even there a few light scratches won't hurt. Good luck! Michael
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#19
10-02-2013, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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