149 misses - Page 2

Dave R · #11 10-03-2013, 03:07 PM

Kostendorf...Did you have to widen or shorten the gap after you static timed it?

I had to shorten the gap. Setting it with the S in the window the points would not close. So I started there and began tapping them together until I got it run and then tried to fine tune that. I have always heard the matchbook cover setting would do it, and that's about where I am with mine. That was a touchy setting on this one. I can't tell you how much it shook and vibrated at throttle up when that was set wrong.

But, all seems well now. I had a snap ring come off the shift/brake linkage a couple days back, and we went through the woods pretty fast until I got it shut down. Got that fixed and we are up and running again. Now I can't find my bracket that holds the muffler on. One thing though, without a muffler you can sure tell how smooth or not smooth is runs.
Dave

kostendorf · #12 10-03-2013, 05:30 PM

all I did was static time it. I did not move the points either way. It starts almost before I turn the key. No complaints there but it does seem to vibrate quite a bit. This is the only cub I've owned so I really don't know what normal is. I might try closing the gap a little and see what happens. I did put a point saver on from Dave Kirk. When you turn the engine by hand till the light comes on the s is right in the window too so I thought I've got it timed perfect.

_DX3_ · #13 10-03-2013, 05:51 PM

Your not setting the timing correctly if you don't move the points with static timing, unless the points are perfectly set to begin with. What static timing does is get the points at the precise setting to begin opening when they are supposed too. This is the reason for the multimeter, to measure when the points actually break open. If they break open but the S is not centered, then you must either open or close the points and retry again until the S is centered at the exact moment the points begin to open, not be .024 open.

kostendorf · #14 10-03-2013, 06:12 PM

That is how I did it with a multimeter. And when the points are fully open it checks .024 . I only checked the s again using the points saver light to see how close it was. And as I said on my first post I believe the rod opening and closing the points is wore maybe causing the wide gap in the points.

_DX3_ · #15 10-03-2013, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kostendorf

That is how I did it with a multimeter. And when the points are fully open it checks .024 . I only checked the s again using the points saver light to see how close it was. And as I said on my first post I believe the rod opening and closing the points is wore maybe causing the wide gap in the points.

I was referring more to Dave's post and there should be no fine tuning needed, but yes, the .020 gap the book states is simply a starting point. Once you set the timing, the actual point setting could be anywhere from .018 to say .026 or so. The fact you say it almost starts before you turn the key tells me you got it right. As for vibration, these single cylinder Kohlers do vibrate. If you want smooth you need to look for an 82 series Cub with the KT 17 II twin cylinder series motor.

Yosemite Sam · #16 10-04-2013, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave R

I had to shorten the gap. Setting it with the S in the window the points would not close.

Are you sure you are looking through the correct hole?

Dave R · #17 10-04-2013, 06:20 AM

Are you sure you are looking through the correct hole?

Maybe not....it's right below the generator, little difficult to see, but visible with a flashlight. I put white chalk on the "T" and the "S" when I reassembled it almost a year and a half ago.

I may look into it again today. Thinking about ordering the Points Saver and putting that on.
Dave