Oil Coolers - Page 2

bugeye · #11 10-26-2013, 06:08 PM

I did not want to cut into the original blower housing. So, I sourced another on fle-bay just in case I was not pleased with the installation. The original is uncut and stored away. I removed the engine and then the blower shroud. I did not buy a Kohler kit. It was used. I disassembled the aluminum adapter/hoses/radiator to clean everything. The referenced fle-bay kit shows plates bolted behind the flywheel. I did not receive these with my used parts. The existing plates were fine, just drill a hole to bolt the radiator to the blower housing. I don't have a way to measure the effectiveness except for warm air out of the radiator.

CAO65 · #12 10-26-2013, 06:38 PM

My 1863 was bought used a month or so ago. Thought it was a good deal. Noticed when I got home and ran it more than a couples of minutes it was so hot you couldn't touch the oil dipstick. The shield over the muffler would sometimes glow red. Scared the hell out of me as I have not experienced this on any other tractor. Had the pleasure of cutting 2 acres today with a GT2000, and it seemed like it was cool to the touch. Even the shield above the muffler could be touched for a second without harm. It ran night and day difference cooler than my 1863. Now, I have no clue what is wrong with it as the GT2000 showed me these engines should not be as hot as my 1863. My Sears Kohler 20 HP garden tractor ran much cooler as well. Any thoughts or ideas as to why 1863 runs this hot I am open to suggestions. I have changed oil, air filter, took shrouds off and used Gunk and cleaned it thoroughly and still it is too hot.

J-Mech · #13 10-26-2013, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CAO65

My 1863 was bought used a month or so ago. Thought it was a good deal. Noticed when I got home and ran it more than a couples of minutes it was so hot you couldn't touch the oil dipstick. The shield over the muffler would sometimes glow red. Scared the hell out of me as I have not experienced this on any other tractor. Had the pleasure of cutting 2 acres today with a GT2000, and it seemed like it was cool to the touch. Even the shield above the muffler could be touched for a second without harm. It ran night and day difference cooler than my 1863. Now, I have no clue what is wrong with it as the GT2000 showed me these engines should not be as hot as my 1863. My Sears Kohler 20 HP garden tractor ran much cooler as well. Any thoughts or ideas as to why 1863 runs this hot I am open to suggestions. I have changed oil, air filter, took shrouds off and used Gunk and cleaned it thoroughly and still it is too hot.

Sounds like it is running too lean. Take off the carb and clean it good/ rebuild it. Install new fuel lines, and a filter. Flush the tank and make sure the fuel pump is in good working order.

CAO65 · #14 10-26-2013, 07:15 PM

Sounds like a plan. How does the carburetor get to the point where it starts to run lean? Why does running lean make the engine runs so hot? Could this state have caused damage to engine such as a blown head gaskets/heads. I can say the engine backfires terribly no matter what kind of shut down sequence I use.

bugeye · #15 10-26-2013, 07:49 PM

For shutdown, I idle the engine for a few minutes while I get out the leaf blower to clean the tractor/mower deck. Then as I am turning the key off, I fully open the throttle. Ocasionally it backfires, but not too often.

inspectorudy · #16 10-28-2013, 07:15 AM

The reason a carb will turn lean is that any restrictions in the fuel delivery will change the fuel/air ratio which is exactly that; the ratio of fuel to air in the cylinder when it burns. If the carb is set correctly then the mixture burns efficiently and the engine temp is where is is supposed to be. But if the mixture turns lean then the it will burn too hot and the cooling effect of the gasoline is lost. Think of it like an acetylene torch where you control the oxygen flow to the flame. You know that if you have too much oxygen the flame will not be as efficient as it is when you have the correct ratio and it will oxidize the metal you are trying to cut. It only takes one small piece of debris to change the ratio and make your engine run much hotter. The surprising thing is that otherwise the engine can run fine even though it is leaner. My experience on air cooled engines is that mixture is usually the culprit when temps rise not cooling fins or sheet metal shrouds.

cubfan · #17 10-28-2013, 08:30 AM

A very white insulator on the spark plugs is a definate indicator of a lean fuel/air mixture.One more thing to check,granted it is a slim one but all the same make sure the muffler is flowing the exhaust gases as it is supposed to and the correct spark plug (heat range).If you do the things suggested there is no doubt the over heating issue should be solved.When you resolve the problem let us know what it was that solved the problem.Good luck!!!!!!!!