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#11
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Good luck. |
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#12
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I own a mechanic shop....... So I do ALL my own work. (Imagine that.) With the exception of boring, and crank grinding, I can do it. Never was justifiable for the business to buy a boring bar.
As a mechanic, I don't like to see people rebuild engines if they don't think they are capable. Don't want to be the "Lone Ranger" on this advice, but I have seen too many times someone was "talked" into doing something that they had no business doing (either by someone else, or they "read on the internet" how easy it is) ..... Then had to pay me to fix it. There have been a few here, from this group, that did everything right on their rebuild, and it still failed. Personally, I say weigh the cost. If it works out for you great! If not, it comes out of your pocket. Everything we do here at my shop leaves with a warranty. So it's out of my pocket if it goes south. Sometimes, it's worth the dollars for the "insurance". If you feel comfortable, go for it! If not, let someone else do it. I will say, the only way that it is even remotely "affordable" to own and restore old tractors is if you do it yourself. Good luck whatever you decide! Sorry for the lengthy response!
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#13
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J-Mech is right I didn't even think of asking you if you are comfortable or have any experience. I took all my projects on with knowledge behind me from rebuilding several classic cars. So I just had to learn the basics of small engines.
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#14
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I am the same as the others have already said, but it kind of depends on my time. I have even hired a repair shop to do things that I can do, but just don't have the time to do. There is nothing wrong with hiring work to be done that is out of your area of expertise--I go to a doctor when I am sick, I go to the dentist when I need my teeth cleaned/fillings/etc., I hire a plasterer when my room needs plastering, etc. Just do what you can and hire out what you need to when you need to. In the long run, you will still have a quality-solid machine that will get the job done for many years. If you want to buy the junk that they sell now and try to pass off as quality, then I think you will be disappointed shortly thereafter. Most cubs will cost a fraction of what a box store one will cost, do a larger variety of duties, and will be able to be repaired for a lot less than the newer stuff that is out there. Also, as it was already mentioned, there is that satisfaction to think that you worked on your own tractor and accomplished something with your own two hands.....and to me, that is priceless! Well, that is my
on the matter. Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA.
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#15
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Errr, I know for sure that there are some parts (like the head) that have to be torqued with a torque wrench. I don't have one of those yet, and it's not something I would grab every time I need a wrench, so it's specialty for me.
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Daniel G. ![]() . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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#16
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To accurately check the bore.... you need either: A bore gauge, or a set of "T" gauges and micrometers To accurately check the out-of-round on the crank...... you need: Micrometers To set crank end play..... you need: A dial indicator I could go on. There really are a lot of special tools needed to properly rebuild an engine. |
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#17
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These are small engines, BASIC tools is what you need for 99% of what you will do. |
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#18
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About the tools, It would be easy to drop a large sum on quality tools. I bought a lot of Snap On, and you better believe I was making money with them. I had not one tool for a rebuild, and did not know apples from oranges. The measurements of the engine and components tell you what to do, not you tell the engine what to do. That has been my great experience. And I will be happy when I fully learn and understand myself one day! { no J-Mech, this is not at you or anyone} The old IH, and Cub Cadets are well worth repairing. If someone is scared to work on these indestructible engines, then look elsewhere for engine service because that service shop is lacking serious knowledge!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
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#19
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My approach is that this stuff is supposed to be fun and educational. At first, I was hesitant to tackle an engine overhaul, but I eventually did one as I gained knowledge and experience. I just pulled my first hydrostat apart the other night. Learned a lot in the process. So, as others have said already, do the things you are comfortable with, tackle something new each time, and your skills and enjoyment will grow over time.
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#20
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I do everything myself except for the precise machining. I take that to the experts.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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