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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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Just get a regular kit off E-bay. Here's a link to the one Sawdust used. I ordered one today for my engine build........ E-bay.
I just called my order in. Guys name is Kevin. Very professional, and easy to deal with. Skip the polishing and balancing. It's a worker not a puller. On what a 2.5" run from the carb to the cylinder...... not going to really do much for it at 3600 RPM on pump gas with stock parts. Leave the "frilly" builds for the "custom" engines. Spend your time getting the machine work done right and putting the engine together, clean and correctly. You sound like you want to learn, start at the beginning, with the basics.
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#12
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My only complaint about those ebay kits (and I've bought two) is that the points they send are wrong for these engines. And in one kit, the exhaust valve was wrong. (there are two sizes I understand).
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#13
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On any K-series I rebuild I use only Kohler parts. But a cheap Buddy of mine wanted his K-301 done and would not spring for OEM parts, so I used the E-Bay kit, +.010 piston and a -.020 rod, the crank had already been turned to -.010. this engine is in a CC127, he used it all spring and summer to mow 2 acres and this winter to plow snow. And is very satisflied with it, On my K-321 rebuild, all OEM parts,with all the necessary maching, +.010 bore and -,010 crank and a 3 angle vavle grind. The only thing the was moded was the cam, I sent it to David Kirk for a regrind, same lift but more duration. As for the port and polish, just clean up the rough casting edges. As mine has an heat insulator block between the carb and the block I did port match the insulator. the only thing I wish I had done was to have the rod machined for bearings. If that K-301 has grenade gears, throw them away.
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#14
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Thankyou gentleman..nice to know about those kits SDD..i assume you are a woodworker?? Just finished an old qsawn oak desk for the living room, glad to have my shop back!! Anyways, Dbuck thats good info, i do appreciate it!! How do you like that cam? I need a broad torque curve, and heard those take from idle and low t, with results only at wot?? Just what ive heard, but you know first hand..? Im not a highschool kid looking for more speed, i just like to take years and years of accumilated data (you smart fellas) and make things better..i have a stainless driveshaft in her with the 2 ragjoints per end, an alluminum 2pc carrier on the bench that i got for free, rebuilding a 50" deck with gt spindles, cradle mod, and various other little things ive done..gauges, lights, flashers, wiring harness, (body work and paint this spring) etc..thats all i meant..which style pistons did you guys order? Or does it even matter, or vary in those kits? Dbuck, you would machine OEM rods for bearing inserts?? Clevite? I guess alot will depend on wear and budget, but just like to get ducks in a row...thankyou guys, hope its warm where youre at, because its CCCCOOOLLLLLDDDD here!!
Thanks Mike P.S JMech, i have been watching your thread about the ported pump in your 129...learned alot about this old cub from you..hoping someday (budget permitting) to find a ported pump also and put dual hydraulics in her..hope the uptick in prices doesnt hurt us too bad!! |
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#15
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She aint much, but shes mine and i love her!!
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#16
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You have a nice QL!
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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#17
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Nice cub! I really like the rear weights. It's a nice tractor. I admire your desire to do things "better than new" and will follow your progress. And, yes, a lifelong woodworker--mostly furniture-tall case clocks, desks, etc. I'll post a couple pics in an album on my personal page if you are interested. -Frank
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#18
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Nice looking quiet line!
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#19
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Quote:
On the cam you are correct. I have my governor set at 4000rpms but only run it at 3800 rpms on my tach, that way I stay in the power band. But it has been stated that the cam re-grind adds about 3 more HP and 2 ft lbs torque on the top side, never seen a dyno sheet to prove this. Yes, Clevite 77, PN: CB278/Federal Mogul PN: FB 9885CP up to -.030. The only difference is the locking tab location. Another thing I do is, the eyebrow area in front of the valves towards the piston. I radius the sharp edge for a smoother flow. I also tulip the valve head, by radiusing the sharp edge under the valve seat edge on the stem side, this is also for smoother flow. Good luck with your endevers.
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#20
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I am just amazed at that machine...always starts super easy (well except once the bendix didnt kick out, little raps with wood handle screwdriver action) runs GREAT after taking head off, cleaning, rebuild carb, other minor reversals of p.o's handiwork...pushes an UNBELIEVABLE amount of snow, easy to work on, and i could go on and on...best 300 i ever spent...far cry from the '74 case 220 we have, even though that was free from my grandpa..anyways, thanks alot guys...absolutely SDD, i would like to see your work!! I found those solid chunks of steel in a local boneyard (heavy as hell) and just did alot of welding..i actually have three but havent even had to use the 3rd..Thanks again for the info DBUCK, and that part#, all that is REALLY helpful..heres some rearend braces i made and put on a couple weekends ago, when i did the lug studs..didnt know they made em, just didnt like the fact there was only 4, 3/8" bolts holding the rearend on!! Im kinda dumb like that really...but thanks again, anything to catch, look for or info is welcome and appreciated
Thanks Mike |
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