Brinly Plow Gauge Wheel

[dirtcowboy]

If I remember right the gentleman's ebay seller name was olcowhand.

[J-Mech]

dirtcowboy:
Why are you running the landslide and a wheel?

[ssechrist]

Originally Posted by dirtcowboy

If I remember right the gentleman's ebay seller name was olcowhand.

Thanks dirtcowboy. I looked for that name on ebay but nothing came up. I'll keep trying.

[dirtcowboy]

Jmech, what do you mean running landside & a wheel? If you mean running a dual on the landside then its just to try & see how it works. Ive read on other forums that the dual helps with the draft on the plow to keep furrow clean. Its just an experiment right now but hopefully find out this spring. I hope it performs as good as I like how it looks. ssechrist, no problem I checked for him on ebay also & he didnt have anything listed.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by dirtcowboy

Jmech, what do you mean running landside & a wheel? If you mean running a dual on the landside then its just to try & see how it works. Ive read on other forums that the dual helps with the draft on the plow to keep furrow clean. Its just an experiment right now but hopefully find out this spring. I hope it performs as good as I like how it looks. ssechrist, no problem I checked for him on ebay also & he didnt have anything listed.

Ok, we are not on the same page here..... not land side.... landslide.

This will help:

See the thing I have circled on this pic:
Plow2.jpg


But is absent in this pic:
plow1.jpg


That thing is a landslide. It does the job of the gauge wheel if you don't have one. That's why Adam's plow doesn't have it. If you have that on, you don't need the gauge wheel, and if the plow is set right, just moving the wheel up won't make it go deeper. You need to unbolt it and take it off. Otherwise, you won't really know if your gauge wheel works better.

I don't know what you are talking about with the dual wheel either. In the pics your tractor doesn't have a dual on it. Also, I don't know what you mean by "draft". Draft control is not related to depth, or really even with the plow. It refers to the load that is placed on the tractor. What "dual" are you referring to?

Edit: Nevermind, I see in your avatar your tractor has a dual on the land side.

[ssechrist]

J-Mech I'll try to explain what the wheel does. All the wheel does is limit how deep the plow will go. The landslide helps control how true the the plow runs & helps keep a nice clean furrow.

I found that plowing the places I plow are not level. There are dips & humps that I plow through. Plowing off in a dip is no problem but when I plow back up the other side the plow goes too deep & stops the tractor. The gauge wheel will eliminate that.

I also plow in sandy ground & the plow tries to go too deep in that also.
I have tried to lock the depth of the plow in one position but then it will try to ride out of the ground so I set the depth stop & let it float.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by ssechrist

J-Mech I'll try to explain what the wheel does. All the wheel does is limit how deep the plow will go. The landslide helps control how true the the plow runs & helps keep a nice clean furrow.

I found that plowing the places I plow are not level. There are dips & humps that I plow through. Plowing off in a dip is no problem but when I plow back up the other side the plow goes too deep & stops the tractor. The gauge wheel will eliminate that.

I also plow in sandy ground & the plow tries to go too deep in that also.
I have tried to lock the depth of the plow in one position but then it will try to ride out of the ground so I set the depth stop & let it float.

I know on here I generally spend time talking about mechanics, but I also grew up farming, and still help one of my friends farm. We had an organic farm. Plowing was still something we did every year. I have spent hundreds of hours on a plow. I'm pretty familiar with how they work and how to set them up. (Not trying to be smug, not sure how else to say it.)

That said, I understand what the wheel is for. But, you don't need to run both the landslide and a wheel. If your going to run a wheel, you should take the "tail" of the landslide off. The wheel does nothing for the furrow wall. A properly set cutter wheel will allow the moldboard to cut and leave a smooth wall. Big plows don't have long tail on the landslides. Even when you remove the "tail" there is still a small landslide on the plow. A gauge wheel will help you with the problem you have with un-level ground, but the pitch of the moldboard has to be set right also. Plowing is a totally different animal than any other tillage tool. One can't really learn how by reading about it. They need to be taught. Or just spend hours doing it. It takes a very long time to get good at it and really understand how to set up the plow.

[dirtcowboy]

JMech, thanks for the info i do appreciate it. Im wanting to learn more about the plow & here is a pic of my plow setup now. If you could circle or point out what i need to remove on mine i would appreciate it.

[J-Mech]

I don't see any reason you need anything past this point. Take it off.

DCP.jpg

[Merk]

You don't need the depth wheel or the weight if the plow is set right. The plow needs to have a good point and a sharp coulter to work right. Page 4 of this brinly manual
www.brinly.com/graphics/manuals/PP_51BH.pdf
have needed information on how to set the hitch.

Pre plowing setup:
The moldboard needs to have rust and paint removed from it. A wire brush or a sanding flap disc works good on the moldboard. The plow needs to be parallel with the tractor. I like to use the left adjusting bolt on the sleeve hitch to keep the plow from swinging to much to the left.
With the tractor sitting on level surface I like to have aound a 1 inch gap between the floor and the back bottom edge of the landslide.
I like to have some float in the lift arms. I do not plow with all the way down. The stop is removed from my Cub Cadet. I wll place a piece of tape on the trans tunnel to show me how deep my plow will go on flat soil.

First couple passes
On the first pass I do not do any adjusting because the furrow side of the tractor is 4-5 inches higher than normal plowing. Your tail slide angle is off too. On the second pass I like to plow 4-6 feet and stop the tractor and take a close look at the landslide gap. I try to have 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap between the bottom of the landslide and the furrow floor. Ajust the tailslide untill you have the correct gap. A no gap condiation will cause the plow not go into/hard to go into the soil. Any soil build up needs to be cleaned often so the moldboard will shine up. The better the shine-the easier the plow will pull.


Dual wheel
I've ran a dual on my IH Cub Cadet 149. The dual may be off the surface a little.......you can tell when it is digging into the soil. 23-8.50-12 and 6-12 ags are good tires sizes to run a dual. Anything bigger and they are worthless. Max tire width:
8 inch wide plow-use a 23-8.50-12 or a 6-12 tire
10 inch wide plow-use a 23-8.50-12 or a 6-12 tire
12 inch plow 23-10.50-12 or 26-12-12 tire

I started out with 23-10.50-12 ags on my IH Cub Cadet 149 with a 10 inch plow. I kept breaking pins in the driveshaft (correct pin) . It got to the point where I cound replace a pin and be plowing in less than 8 minutes (someone timed me). I went to 23-8.50-12 ags with a dual and have not broken a pin since. That was 7 years ago. I notice the 23-10.50-12 did not set right in the furrow. The furrow tie was running on plowed soil from the round before. My 149-plow hit a hard spot-spinning tire dug inand hit the hard furrow floor. There was enough shock to the driveline to break the pin in the driveshaft.

Plowing speed plays an impotant part in keeping the plow in the ground. The plow speed should be around 3 mph to get the best results.

I have been plowing with IH Cub Cadets since I was 10 years old. That was 45 years ago. I am still learning.