My 982D build - Page 2

ACecil · #11 12-27-2013, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_

Can't wait to see it finished.

Same here!

J-Mech · #12 12-28-2013, 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTRUEX

If I were to add a separate cylinder for the rear lift, how should I do it? I searched and found squat. Suggestions? I am thinking in frame, with a skinny wide frame cylinder. I'll have to check the cylinder's stroke. Also, am I right about the 1" fender height difference? Okay, you guys get me some answers as I get back to the bat cave. Thanks.

I haven't done it yet, but I'd like to separate my rear and front lifts. I think you would be disappointed if you use one small cylinder. It isn't very big= less lifting power. As a matter of fact, even if you use 2 it's still not as much surface area as the short fat one. I haven't measured, but I think you can get the bigger one in. If not, I'd try and find 2, 2" cylinders. At 2" bore, using 2, that would get you just a little more lifting capacity than the single 2.5" bore.

yesmar74 · #13 12-28-2013, 05:52 AM

Nice write up Cory. You said the pictures made it look better than it really is. After seeing it person I have to say, it looks super nice and no short-cuts. You're do'n a heck of a nice job. That will be something you'll be able to pass on to you're kids.

1811woody · #14 12-28-2013, 11:32 AM

Looks like a lot of work going on there it should be well worth it in the end. No reason why you wont be able to get a good long life out of her properly maintained. The heim joints that you used do you have a part number I'd like to check them out for my tractor.

CTRUEX · #15 12-31-2013, 04:00 PM

GOOD NEWS! I have sourced a brand new upper radiator hose for our 82 series diesels (782D, 882, 1512, 1572, 1772). It is for a Kubota RTV 500, and the Kubota part number is K7311-85150. There is a bell end on it that will need to be trimmed off, but other than that, it is as close to a match as you're probably ever gonna find. Now I need to figure out a good replacement for the insulation.

60745K461 is the McMaster part number for the power steering rod ends. They are 1/2-20, and the tie rods take the same, or you can use the ones with a threaded stud. They also use 3/8-24, and the hydrostat control linkage uses 5/16-24, in both RH and LH threads. They have a bunch of different flavors, at different prices, but these are what I went with, since they're sealed and super strong.

I've decided not to go with a separate lift cylinder, since I have no practical reason for it and there is no quick and easy way to add one. The skinny one would work, with a rock shaft, but the stroke is too long for direct coupling. There is not enough room to direct couple the larger one, so a rock shaft would need to be used with that one, as well. As for the differences in piston surface areas, the skinny one would move faster, and would have less lifting capability, but the leverage gained from the rock shaft would make up for it.

Cubcrazy · #16 12-31-2013, 06:47 PM

Good to hear!

ACecil · #17 12-31-2013, 10:42 PM

Great news!

yesmar74 · #18 01-01-2014, 05:35 AM

Thanks for the update Cory.

Oak · #19 01-01-2014, 11:01 AM

Cory, for the insulation on the hose I use what we use in the HVAC trade. It is called Armaflex and comes in many sizes, split and un-split. I use the un-split and slide over as long of a piece I can. If you can't find any, pm me your address and I will send you a piece.

1811woody · #20 01-02-2014, 06:55 AM

Thanks for the info on the heim joints Cory. As far as the separate lift for the rear I used a electric lift on my 1863. I plan on using it for with a front and rear blade for leveling gravel or what ever. Or I can use the rear blade for small jobs without taking the deck off. Its kinda handy.