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Reload this Page 2072 Won't Crank or click even... has lights
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by inspectorudy View Post
You may want to jump the positive batt pole to the starter side of the solenoid to make sure that the sol is not the problem. Try it once on the big red cable side and then on the small wire side of the sol. It should start on either side if the sol is ok.
Jumping from the B+ side of the solenoid to the other large post (or "start side") bypasses the solenoid completely. Only jumping from the B+ to the small post will test it.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Jumping from the B+ side of the solenoid to the other large post (or "start side") bypasses the solenoid completely. Only jumping from the B+ to the small post will test it.
What you said But it still doesn't tell you if your getting voltage to the sol when the key is turned to the start position.
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:47 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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What you said But it still doesn't tell you if your getting voltage to the sol when the key is turned to the start position.
That is true, but it will tell you if the solenoid is good. Putting a test light on the small post with all wires hooked up, and trying to crank will tell you if it's getting power.
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
According to the Switch Diagram....there is no terminals labeled 1 & 2.
On this print no but if you look at the switch mentioned there is no C&D. The switch used for the 1872 and the 2072 called out on print for the above mentioned use that switch with term 1-5 called out so I was hoping to help him to trouble shoot his pto switch by reading voltage across the pins
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004f550 View Post
Thank you, looks like something with the pto switch probably it's the only thing left
You can try to spray WD-40 into the switch and work the switch to clean the contacts and to lube the switch you may get lucky.
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2014, 03:01 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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(A) I have to apologize. There is an error in my First wiring schematic. In tracing the start circuit back to the Battery, there IS a fuse. Obviously, this has to be good in order for you to start your engine.

(B) You do not have to have a meter to check the start circuit. Attaching a "jumper wire" say about 4 feet, to the Battery Positive Terminal, you can trace the problem down. In the diagram below, I have indicated "test points" (ie: 1, 2 & 3) where to touch a terminal with the other end of a jumper wire, and it will identify where the problem is. Starting at the Solenoid, work your way back to the source (battery). Bear in mind, the PTO Switch has to be off, and the brake pedal has to be depressed. Additionally, the key switch has to be in the "start position ".

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[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 01-12-2014, 03:04 PM
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I know what Woody is looking at Roland. In the service manual for those machines, all the wiring diagrams PTO switches are labeled 1-5. I don't know what the switch has printed on it. Yes Woody, C=1, D=2.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2014, 03:07 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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he switch used for the 1872 and the 2072 called out on print for the above mentioned use that switch with term 1-5 called out so I was hoping to help him to trouble shoot his pto switch by reading voltage across the pins
Per the Cub Cadet Electrical Diagram Manual...

NOW.....Cub Cadet may have used a different Vendor for these switches and there labeling may different than the original. If that is the case, then research would have to be done on that vendor and their internal diagram.


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[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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  #19  
Old 01-12-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
(A) I have to apologize. There is an error in my First wiring schematic. In tracing the start circuit back to the Battery, there IS a fuse. Obviously, this has to be good in order for you to start your engine.

(B) You do not have to have a meter to check the start circuit. Attaching a "jumper wire" say about 4 feet, to the Battery Positive Terminal, you can trace the problem down. In the diagram below, I have indicated "test points" (ie: 1, 2 & 3) where to touch a terminal with the other end of a jumper wire, and it will identify where the problem is. Starting at the Solenoid, work your way back to the source (battery). Bear in mind, the PTO Switch has to be off, and the brake pedal has to be depressed. Additionally, the key switch has to be in the "start position ".
Oh lordy lordy the all important fuse that has certainly has to be good for it to get voltage through to the sol. I guess I didnt even ask about that because one would assume that's the first thing you would check. Good call!
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I know what Woody is looking at Roland. In the service manual for those machines, all the wiring diagrams PTO switches are labeled 1-5. I don't know what the switch has printed on it. Yes Woody, C=1, D=2.
Ok thanks that's the one I was looking at.
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