Quietline rear end swap to SGT

Originally Posted by midyearguru

Great Pix! But, what is the procedure without this modification?

There should be a plug in the rear cover, remove plug and fill to plug, reinstall plug.



Scott

[cub149]

Ok, I'm a little confused. The CI rear on the 982 has no dipstick on the top? If this is the case why do I have one on my 982? Anyway, the rear is cast but the sides and axle tubes appear to be aluminum. Is this correct?
Also, If you look close you can see a pto shaft coming out the back of the pump, is this standard?

Some tubes are aluminum and some are iron, don't know what the rule is but I have 'em with both.

The 982 is the only one I know of that came with the dip stick in the top cover.

The splined output shaft, all Super pumps have them, drive the rear pto but it in and of it's self is not the pto.

Scott

[cub149]

Ok, my next question is the fluid level. The dipstick is showing it is low but when I remove the plug on the back cover it is up to the bottom of the hole (the way my 149 would be). Which is the correct way to measure the fluid level on this 982? The manual says nothing about this.

If you had a rear pto you'd have no other option but to use/trust the dip stick. I really don't think it will matter one way or the other. Pint here or there.

Scott

[cub149]

Much apprecitated Scott, thanks.

[midyearguru]

What problems, if any, would there be with swapping a complete CI rear end/pump from a QL (1650) into an 1872? I mean a direct swap without changing any internal components or pump. Would the coarse spline dual disc brake rear axles work with the 1872 calipers, etc?

Thanks.

[Matt G.]

Several. First, the input shaft on the 1872 pump is splined, 1650 pump isn't. Second, the gear ratio between the pump and differential is different; the tractor will be faster/have less torque with the 1650 rear. The brakes will work, but you are liable to twist off a coarse-spline axle in a super if you use it for plowing.

If you want to do it right, use the 1872 pump and aluminum rear internals in the cast iron case. More work, but in the end, you'll have the best of both worlds.

What's wrong with the aluminum rear in your 1872? Unless you're trying to gain weight or have a broken case, there really isn't any need to do this.

[midyearguru]

Thanks Matt. That's exactly the information I was looking for. I bought a complete 1650 CI rear/pump for $40. I was wondering if I could use it "as is", and if the internals bit the dust, so what? At the very least, I have a CI case if I ever want to swap the internals.

[aagitch]

Is there really a point switching from aluminum to a cast rear unless something's wrong with the rearend? You're most likely not going to have issues with the aluminum rear unless you're abusing it. Seems like a waist of money.