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Reload this Page Bad 782D diesel drive shaft
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  #11  
Old 05-30-2014, 10:02 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post

Sam, I need to get with you on a CV type shaft. I don't know how large they are and there is not much room in that area. I have flexed my 882 enough that the drive line bolts hit the steering tube.
Todd

The CV joint is about 2-3/4" OD. Get a set of braces on that 882 before you bust something.
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2014, 10:21 AM
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gt383mag gt383mag is offline
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When i got mine they had just rebuilt the front joint all new and didnt do rear end. So i have half a new shaft... reaar is shot and almost ruined the hydro so i got a cv setup to replace it
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:00 PM
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red56turbo red56turbo is offline
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Originally Posted by Workinprogress View Post
Years ago I had the same problem with the bolt heads hitting. If you look carefully at the parts breakdown. Cub cadet parts lists "carriage bolt". I replaced the hex head bolts on my 1512 with carriage bolts and have not had a problem.
That's a good idea. I just grind down the heads of bolts and have never had an issue. I'll have to remember that for next time and read the parts breakdown better.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2014, 03:26 PM
j knight j knight is offline
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Default cv drive shaft for 782d
I have been running the cv drive shaft in my 782D for three weeks now
Nice set up but expensive. No problem with clearance.
Got the adapters from Mac. Found a drive shaft from an 1863. Including the fan.
New boots and seals for the cv's. Cut and sleeved the shaft to shorten it.

Will not say it is great till a few hundred hours. Seems smoother even with
the single coiled pin style shaft for the hydro pump. Would prefer to have used the spline shaft for the trans end.

Still working on removing the four tight bolts in the axle flange's to install the axle braces
Joe
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  #15  
Old 06-05-2014, 09:15 AM
mickb72 mickb72 is offline
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Hi Joe, don't you just love locktight on steel bolts in aluminum? Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy. Even though you know the worst thing world is a strong mechanic. Mike
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  #16  
Old 06-05-2014, 09:53 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j knight View Post
I have been running the cv drive shaft in my 782D for three weeks now
Nice set up but expensive. No problem with clearance.
Got the adapters from Mac. Found a drive shaft from an 1863. Including the fan.
New boots and seals for the cv's. Cut and sleeved the shaft to shorten it.

Will not say it is great till a few hundred hours. Seems smoother even with
the single coiled pin style shaft for the hydro pump. Would prefer to have used the spline shaft for the trans end.

Still working on removing the four tight bolts in the axle flange's to install the axle braces
Joe
Joe

When you get a chance could you post some pics of what you did to shorten the shaft?
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2014, 02:07 PM
j knight j knight is offline
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Default Photo's of the drive shaft conversion with Sam Mac's adapters
Really like the CV drive shaft in the 782D
If I had looked closer the alt belt would have been changed.
Only two years old.

Sam Mac did a great job on the adapter's
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Front CV Running.JPG (30.0 KB, 185 views)
File Type: jpg Front CV.JPG (28.2 KB, 186 views)
File Type: jpg Rear CV Running (2).JPG (29.3 KB, 184 views)
File Type: jpg Rear CV.JPG (28.3 KB, 184 views)
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:36 PM
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Looks good Joe!
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2014, 09:35 PM
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PaulS PaulS is offline
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Something that is on my 2084 and our 2072 is a piece of rubber wrapped around one of the hydro lines to keep them from vibrating against each other. A 1 inch piece of garden hose and a zip tie would work.
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2020, 03:52 PM
djrober djrober is offline
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Having a similar issue and need to replace my driveline flange (703-1005A)in a 882. The link someone provided above for the replacement Bushing by itself is no longer working. Does anyone have any specs on that bushing?
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