1810 Hydro problem

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Oak

He added a hydraulic lift to this tractor from the original armstrong lift. IIRC, I was thinking the relief needed to be adjusted or changed. If you go to Parts Tree and look up an 1810 & 1811 the relief valves have different numbers. The 1810 uses a SU-9510385-0006 and the 1811 uses a part that ends in -0003. I think I remember reading about this a few years ago but I may be wrong.

Oh. I assumed he had to swap pumps. I didn't even think about the 1810 having a ported pump. Oak, you are correct.

Originally Posted by weatherby

Maybe I could take a relief valve out of my 782 to see if that will change anything....Does it make a difference which one I swap, or should I swap both of them ?

He's not talking about the big hydro relief valves. He is referring to the charge pump relief valve.

Here are the pics of the 1810 pump (left) and the 1811 pump (right). See the other relief valve in the 1811 pump? Well, I'm at a loss on this one, because it looks like (from parts book research) that the 1811's pump used that second valve (D) as the "center relief" and then the other valve (C) is the implement relief. Whereas on the 1810, valve "C" is the center relief. I'm gonna have to do some digging......... Did you have a parts machine for the conversion? If so, maybe just swap pumps.
hydro.jpg1811 pump.jpg

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by inspectorudy

J-mech, can you tell me if a new loader with no oil in the rams or lines needs to be bled or will the operating of the levers back and forth get the air out?

As long as the pump is primed, the cylinders will self bleed. Just watch the reservoir, as it fills the cylinders, (using the levers) obviously it will need oil added. Be careful, it will be jerky till it's all bled.

[J-Mech]

Ok. I dug the info out. Here's what you need to do. You need to order an implement relief valve kit. CCC part number SU-9510385-0003, you can get it for $162.06 here. I pulled the service manual for the Sauer/Danfoss unit and it confirms this info.

When you get the valve, take the plug out of the R.H. side (#32). Then take the entire valve assm (C) and move it to the cavity in the side. Put the #32 plug in. Then take the new valve and put it in the cavity where "C" was.

Only other choice is to replace the pump with a different one. Actually, it might be cheaper. Your call.

1810.jpg

[weatherby]

Thanks J-Mec.....I"m out of town for work for the next several days...I will look into this when I get home.

It is looking like my 782 my end up as a parts tractor

[weatherby]

Thanks everyone that shared there opinions on what might be my problem.

J-Mec's Pics show just what the problem is....On a 1810 pump, it does NOT have a pressure relief valve in the side of the pump. As my diagram shows a 1811 pump, it DOES have a relief valve on the side of the pump (diagram D). On my 1810 pump that hole is empty with just the a plug screwed into it to plug it off. To test this theory, I took the relief valve (diagram D) out of my 782's pump and installed it into my 1810 pump and after test driving my problem was SOLVED.

My (partner in crime) AKA good friend is a tool maker, and has is own lathe. He is making that entire kit (D) except for the spring, the spring is easily obtainable. He is also repairing my leaky "pressure relief valves" (B) and I will tig weld the ends back on.

I will post pics in the next couple of days

[Oak]

Great news, let us know how the other stuff turns out too.

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Oak

Great news, let us know how the other stuff turns out too.

X2!

[J-Mech]

Good news!!

Originally Posted by weatherby

My (partner in crime) AKA good friend is a tool maker, and has is own lathe. He is making that entire kit (D) except for the spring, the spring is easily obtainable.

Now, I want to re-iterate. The valve "D" is really, valve "C" moved down. Then valve "C" is the one to copy, which you don't have. Good news is, they use the same pintle for the valve, but use a different spring. You need to set the pressure using a gauge. Don't just go buy a spring that looks the same, it won't be correct. Even the factory springs had to be shimmed. Without great explanation, I can't emphasize enough you need to check pressure with a gauge, then pop the valve and make sure it relieves correctly. It really would be better if you could get a used valve out of another tractor to copy. Grabbing a hardware store spring for the relief valve is no different than going to the hardware store to buy a valve spring. Sure it works...... for a while.

[weatherby]

J-Mec....I appreciate your expert advice and will look into the spring issue along with the pressure.

Yes, we are copying valve C out of my 782 pump.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by weatherby

J-Mec....I appreciate your expert advice and will look into the spring issue along with the pressure.

Yes, we are copying valve C out of my 782 pump.

Ok, well the 782 and the 1811 do use the same poppet. But the springs are different.