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#11
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I think most of us could afford to buy a single decent snap-on drill bit for a tough job. I think I have my answer for where to get a 1/8" bit now for when I have to do my PTO ($6.10/ea.. it is HSS though.. Can't find a Cobalt in 1/8" but "close" is like $11/ea). Stuff isn't free at Sears either...
I've drilled drills before and I'll pay $11 to not do it again. Fixing the block if things go wrong is gonna cost WAY more than that in the case of the OP. The biggest thing that sucks about snap-on is tracking down a truck if you're just a regular dude. Some days its 5 minutes away, other days its 3 hours. |
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#12
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Picture of the broken bolt and the hole it goes to. I got all the other bolts soaking.
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Owner of: cub 1650 cub 122 |
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#13
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That's a problem...
Get that one soaking too and I'd be measuring the hole for the length of bit and extractor you need. Good luck! |
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#14
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Quote:
Once you remove the head, what may work is to take a piece of 3/4" to 1" thick steel square bar ( 3" long would be fine ) and drill a 5/16" hole thru it on a drill press. Using the other bolt holes, clamp the bar down in the correct position and drill the broken bolt out. 5/16" is the correct size for 3/8-16 NC |
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#15
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If the bolt is broken off flush, your better off welding a washer to it, then a nut. The heat from welding helps to break the bolt loose also. Usually they come right out. Plus, saves the risk of broken drill bits, easy outs, and the like. This is my first choice on removing a broken bolt.
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#16
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if you have to drill it if you can get your hands on a set of left handed drills so if it loosen up after you start it will turn it out.
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#17
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its always the one by the exhaust port
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#18
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Im guessing others have had the same problem.
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Owner of: cub 1650 cub 122 |
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#19
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Yeah, everybody that breaks a head bolt.
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#20
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I just put in all studs on my manual lift 125. I'm not playing that game again
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