Low Ash Oil

[Don1450]

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

I've been using Rottela 15W/40 for about 20 years and haven't had any luck, good or bad. Just like the Engergizer Bunny. Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'!

I use it in all my small engines and a number of old cars I have. The reason I started using it in everything was because I bought a PowerStroke Ford in '95 and a diesel Kubota at the same time. Both took diesel oil. I don't like a bunch of different kinds of oil stacked around the place.

I believe the Rotella T is low ash oil.

You right. I just looked at the Shell website and Rotella T is a low ash oil. Apparently its made for Diesel engines that use some kind of particulate filter and the low ash quality helps the filters last longer. Doesn't really matter to us, its a quality motor oil with low-ash and comes in straight 30W grading. Works for me thanks!

[snoel]

[QUOTE=Mike McKown;276244] ... Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'!

TIMEX! Many years ago.

[sawdustdad]

I use Rotella 30wt. in my cubs.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Don1450

How do I order some? What is the P/N?

If you really want the Case-IH oil, find a dealer near you and call to see if they stock 30W Low Ash oil and are willing to ship it to you. Make sure they know what you are talking about. IH also made a No1 diesel engine oil, you don't want that. Cant remember if they made any others nor do I know if Case-IH has any new flavors. Personally I think the other oils suggested here will work fine. My 2072 has never had anything but IH Low-ash. The 129, 128, 382 and John Deere 110 (with an 8hp Kohler) have all been running for years with an Exxon diesel oil---yes I know you aren't supposed to put that in a gas engine but when the 15 or so engines we have using it blow up we'll consider changing. Personally, I think all you need is a quality oil and check it every time you mow the grass or fill the fuel tank, whichever comes first. And unless you can cut your yard in 30 minutes, change it about mid season. And if you run out 2-3 tanks of fuel a week, don't change oil more often, upgrade to a SUPER!

[PaulS]

Rotella 30wt here too in all our 7 cadets, a Jacobsen 10 hp, a DR lawn vac, a log splitter and a partridge in a pear tree. I get mine at Wally world, the oil that is not the partridge.

[gpapa]

I believe that air cooled engines should use oil that is manufactured for that application. I use 30W air cooled engine oil from name brand manufacturers and add ZDDP additive. More importantly, the unleaded E10 gasoline we are using in our cubs probably does more damage than any "regular" oil might. There seems to be no shelf life to today's gasoline and very little lubricating and cushining properties to the fuel.

[Maxwelhse]

I will preface this by saying that I have always felt that its more important to change your oil, and check the level, than it is is to buy exactly "X" product (naturally you want the correct viscosity). If you're buying something quality and changing it, you're good. I personally run Valvoline 30W because its been affordable, available, and I've not had issues.

To the low ash conversation...

I had always assumed "low ash" was basically a carry over from the '60s when it mattered because every local "filling station" had their own brand of oil. From what I can tell, it basically is. Finding a scientific definition of "low ash" has been challenging and I've been researching for about 45 minutes because I'm a nerd and I want to know. The data is further "tainted" by low ash now being used almost always in conjunction with EPA-07+ On-road diesel engines, which doesn't mean anything in 1960s Kohlers.

Shell does not publish the ash content of Rotella T1 on their web site (that I could find anyhow.. it bugs me when manufacturers hide data) but it does meet a variety of other specs that all point to "low ash".

On the other hand Valvoline does publish the ash content of their conventional 30W, at 0.8%, which actually beats some synthetics.

Based on my research, nearly all modern oils come in at 1% ash content or less. I may email Shell and ask them for a data sheet on Rotella and see where it stands. Valvoline keeps getting more and more expensive and you can't get 30W in a gallon jug like Rotella. I'd switch if I could compare the data.

[Shrewcub]

I'm on the Rotella T bandwagon too. I use Archoil AR9200 friction modifier instead of a zinc additive. This stuff is amazing! A must for HEUI diesels. Thats how I found out about it. I also run their AR6200 in my fuel.

http://www.archoil.com/

[john hall]

I never could find the magazine article online about IH lubricants but I did find a link to the manufacturer. Trying to research this just led to countless online conversations/arguments.

I did find the specs for Case-IH low ash oil from the manufacturer (Viscosity Oil)

http://www.viscosityoil.com/pdf/P1_12.PDF

scroll down to page 1E10

appears to be .5% ash content

As far as I know this company has always made Hy-Tran for IH

[Userj8670]

I'm on the rotella band wagon as well...used to run just anything I could get my hands on but after being educated on oils and doing research this is what I run. Love the stuff!