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  #11  
Old 07-27-2014, 03:11 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Doesn't matter, either way.
so if you got a used motor that you knew nothing about you'd feel comfortable taking the time to install it into a tractor or sell it to someone else without bothering to test it?
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2014, 03:32 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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so if you got a used motor that you knew nothing about you'd feel comfortable taking the time to install it into a tractor or sell it to someone else without bothering to test it?
If I had a used engine, I wouldn't sell it without first rebuilding it. I NEVER sell a used motor. If I want to use a used engine, I'd fix what it needed and slap it in. The only thing that can't be fixed in the frame is a bad rod bearing. If a bearing is loose enough to knock, you can "feel it" by rocking the crank, if you know how to tell. I ain't scared. I've never had one not run. Besides. It takes what, 20-30 min to bolt it into the frame and set it to fire? I think 30 min is generous. Half of the time, it's tractor wiring that's the problem anyway. No one has bought a complete engine from me yet, so none of them get test fired. I'm confident in my ability to rebuild, or diagnose a problem, fix and install a motor.

Want to talk about frustrating...... try putting a motor in a car, truck or even a semi or a piece of equipment and then finding out it's bad. Now THAT is a bad day. 8 hours or more work, and you get to do it all over!!
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  #13  
Old 07-27-2014, 03:51 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking you guys for wanting a test bench. That's cool. But is it really worth the time? How many engines are you going to test in a year?

A little off topic, but while on the subject of buying a used engine, or tractor, I don't believe anything about the engine that the PO tells me. I bought 3 tractors in the last year that I was told "ran great". One I could hear the rod knocking while I was loading it, one was missing and had a dropped valve, the other had problems galore. I have a "max price" that I am willing to pay for used engines, and that's all I'll spend.
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  #14  
Old 07-27-2014, 04:05 PM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking you guys for wanting a test bench. That's cool. But is it really worth the time? How many engines are you going to test in a year?

A little off topic, but while on the subject of buying a used engine, or tractor, I don't believe anything about the engine that the PO tells me. I bought 3 tractors in the last year that I was told "ran great". One I could hear the rod knocking while I was loading it, one was missing and had a dropped valve, the other had problems galore. I have a "max price" that I am willing to pay for used engines, and that's all I'll spend.
Hey, don't forget about that little 10hp sewing machine you got from me
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2014, 04:29 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Hey, don't forget about that little 10hp sewing machine you got from me
Yours ran great Ryan! It needed a little help, but that's just because it hadn't ran any PTO equipment since before you owned it. Pulls my 50" deck just fine! It is going to need an overhaul though. That oil consumption isn't getting any better. It's not bad, but it isn't getting better.

Lets get back on track. Sorry I derailed things......
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  #16  
Old 07-27-2014, 05:49 PM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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No worries. I just don't have the free time I like, so I'd just like to see whether I've got running motors or not before I tear them down. I think I'll get a 125 wiring harness, put it in my good 125, put my good old harness in the test tractor, then I have a test bed I can drive! I'll get cracking on this and keep you guys posted.
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Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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  #17  
Old 07-27-2014, 06:42 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Ian I think it's a good idea. As Tim said maybe a frame piece with legs or I was thinking use quiet line saddles with the cradle mod done and put legs on it or some sort of base, then that can be stationary as well and bolt and unbolt the engine. Battery tray on the side, voltage reg with all alligator clips, shortened wire harness, maybe push button start and ign toggle switch. All the K series have the same pattern except for the original k161 right?
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  #18  
Old 07-27-2014, 07:57 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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I built one to test used and rebuilt motors. I used a 129 frame. cut it off behind the dash. left the dash and controls on it, tank bolts to the dash so its always there. I cut the side of the frame out so the points could be accessed easy. I have tires on the front and legs on the rear so it can be moved easy. our dyno is set up a bit nicer
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2014, 12:31 AM
alsparl alsparl is offline
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During my dealership days, I learned how inventive some of my fellow employees were. A $2.00 "Little Red Wagon" from a rummage sale was the start of the engine test bench. Once the "bed" was removed, (2) 4" x 4" rails were made from wooden equipment shipping crates. A battery box was mounted, as was a small 1/2 to 1 gallon fuel tank above battery box (for the gravity feed needs). A small instrument panel was created as well. A single solid engine plate was created with many bolt patterns for the different engines. Mount the engine, hook up the fuel line, battery, other basic electrical components, and there you have it. Worked like a dream and was on wheels, with a handle I might add.

Another similar tool that was priceless started out as a simply 2-wheel dolly cart . This was made specifically to test all lighting on the pull-type implements. Battery box mounted on bottom. A panel with every single kind of electrical hook up (ex: 4-flat, 7-flat, 7-round, 6-round, etc) was in the middle, hooked up to the battery source as well as the control panel that had a small toggle switches above to test brake lights, turn signals, flashers, etc. You may ask why would you make something like this? It allowed for easy testing of the lights without having to acquire a truck or tractor to hook them up. During the winter, no doors got opened until unit was ready to roll out onto the lot.

Both of these took some time to create, but they served a need for many years. Once you have it done, its easily and readily accessible.
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'83 782 #723927
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2014, 04:35 AM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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I gave away a 1200 frame for $0 a few years ago... It would have made a wonderful test stand... Go find a free or $100 tractor and build one from there.
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