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  #11  
Old 08-10-2014, 04:04 AM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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I agree with Jonathan,you tore in down this far take it to a machine shop and have it done right. It wont do any good to hone it and ring it,you'd just be wasting your money.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
No, before you ask, honing it and slapping a set of rings in it isn't a rebuild, and it's a waste of time. Do it right, the K series are cheap motors to rebuild. Done right they last, oh, around 25-40 years depending on they're use. (About 1500-2000hrs or more if you take care of them)
You got ahead of the ballgame :P I had quite a few people tell me just to put rings in it, but I also talked to some other small engine guys, and they also agreed with me, why go this far just to put rings in the thing?

I'll have to set out to find a machine shop... I already found multiple rebuild kits, and that was an anticipated cost.

Thanks!
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2014, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I'm guessing this is the first motor you've ever taken apart.
Yes it is! I was able to pick my father's brain until the point I got the piston out, and he says "I don't know anymore about any of this stuff, way beyond my knowledge" lol. This motor was so nasty with oil and junk though, yikes.

Question

Say I get the motor bored .010 over, do I need to do anything with timing? What about .030 over? What would each of these things net me? I found a machine shop that will do cylinder boring, hopefully it's something they can do while I wait in town.
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2014, 09:26 AM
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If you are in this deep something else to consider, is it better for them to put the block back together or can you borrow the needed tools to do it? Torque wrench, ring squeezer, valve spring compressor, have all these at your disposal? Sometimes I have found if you don't have everything needed, you are better off to let the machine shop put the long block back together. Depending on the shop, they can either order will fit parts or give you the option of ordering genuine Kohler parts and bringing the parts to them. We never order anything until the machine shop is done machining. Maybe they need .01, maybe it takes .030 to clean something up.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
If you are in this deep something else to consider, is it better for them to put the block back together or can you borrow the needed tools to do it? Torque wrench, ring squeezer, valve spring compressor, have all these at your disposal? Sometimes I have found if you don't have everything needed, you are better off to let the machine shop put the long block back together. Depending on the shop, they can either order will fit parts or give you the option of ordering genuine Kohler parts and bringing the parts to them. We never order anything until the machine shop is done machining. Maybe they need .01, maybe it takes .030 to clean something up.
The farthest that I have gone so far is just to take the piston out, I haven't gone into taking the gears, crankshaft, valves, etc out.

Torque wrench I do have, the rest of the tools, doubtful. I will check with the machine shop on Monday or so to see what they say about parts.
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  #16  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NE149 View Post
Yes it is! I was able to pick my father's brain until the point I got the piston out, and he says "I don't know anymore about any of this stuff, way beyond my knowledge" lol. This motor was so nasty with oil and junk though, yikes.

Question

Say I get the motor bored .010 over, do I need to do anything with timing? What about .030 over? What would each of these things net me? I found a machine shop that will do cylinder boring, hopefully it's something they can do while I wait in town.
As far as boring goes never bore further than you have to, its a waste that won't gain you any HP and you lose the ability for future rebuilds. Timing should be the same regardless of how much its bored.
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
As far as boring goes never bore further than you have to, its a waste that won't gain you any HP and you lose the ability for future rebuilds. Timing should be the same regardless of how much its bored.
Copy that. I suppose the machine shop will want me to pull the head at that point. They should be able to do valves for me then too. I'm going to ask them if they want the piston before they bore the cylinder also.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:32 AM
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Yes they want the piston first, the block will be bored to match the piston.
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NE149 View Post
Copy that. I suppose the machine shop will want me to pull the head at that point. They should be able to do valves for me then too. I'm going to ask them if they want the piston before they bore the cylinder also.
I agree with Olds on the boring part. Question, how did you get the piston out if you did not pull the head? Yes on the cly boring, a good machine shop will want the piston so that they can get the correct piston to bore clearance. Along with the valve job, have the machine shop check the valve guides also for spec. Also as stated by John Hall, if you do not have the correct tools for a rebuild, you will better off to let the machine shop assemble a short block and with the Kohler engine manual you can assemble the rest.
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2014, 10:45 AM
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Sorry Olds, i missed your post on the piston, or I would not have put it my post.
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