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#11
11-09-2014, 11:51 AM
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Was thinking more about this and again want to thank you because this also answers a few other questions I had.
1. Just in general why the heat tins are shaped the way they are. I can see exactly why there is the curve up top and why it would be there to help push air over the cylinder. 2. I was thinking of running without the tins just to play around with different looks. That idea is a firm no go because without that tin the air would not blow over the cylinder. Thanks again!
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108 upgraded to 12hp 127 with all the trimmings 73 WIP 75 WIP Blade, blower, decks Tons of left over parts 
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#12
11-09-2014, 05:24 PM
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Glad to help! If you ever see a flywheel with the shrouds off you'll see all the blades sticking out that force the air over the cylinder head. Works the same way as the blower fan in a car's heating/cooling system. And definitely useless without the shrouds!
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Ian Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts. family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub. Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors! 
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#13
11-09-2014, 10:11 PM
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Oh yes baaaaaad idea to run the engine without the tins. A good way to see airflow is after mowing in a very dusty area. Blow some air into the front of the engine when it's running at about 1/4 throttle and see how much crap comes outta there. I get a lot of cottonwood during the late spring at my house and it likes to build up on the backside of the grille. Taking a leaf blower and blowing back through the engine when it's running will loosen a lot of the stuck crap and blow it back out at me.
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Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#14
11-09-2014, 10:19 PM
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I have to say that I'm a little surprised that you had no idea that the air came out the front. Have you not ever walked in front of the tractor with it running?
Not making fun...... just really surprised you never noticed.
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#15
11-09-2014, 10:22 PM
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I honestly never noticed. Though only time I would have done that the engine would have been at very low idel so maybe not blowing that much air? It all makes sense now but I didn't realize this. I've now drilled some holes in this grill to fix this issue. Really glad this came up so I got the proper info.
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108 upgraded to 12hp 127 with all the trimmings 73 WIP 75 WIP Blade, blower, decks Tons of left over parts
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#17
11-09-2014, 10:30 PM
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I might just do that then. You guys all seem pretty solid on this so I'm thinking this is not something to be messing with. Kind of silly of me to post something and get all this advice on it then to only ignore the advice. Thanks all for the help 😄
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108 upgraded to 12hp 127 with all the trimmings 73 WIP 75 WIP Blade, blower, decks Tons of left over parts
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#18
11-09-2014, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
 Not poking fun. I see advice given on here all the time, and some still try to convince the pros differently. You did a nice job fabbing it up. Looks cool, but function first, then form. Your lights look cool. Bright?
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1966__122 Cub Cadet. Owner: Calvin, 6 yrs old Dad: Craig
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#19
11-09-2014, 11:35 PM
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At the risk of being a lone dissenter, I'm going to disagree. The solid grill won't matter a whit. (though it might melt, depending on the material)
The engine cooling airflow is, as has been described, from the flywheel/impeller, across the cylinder fins, across the muffler and out the front. On the 108, without side covers, I would expect the airflow to simply hit the solid grill cover, and rebound out both sides. I don't believe it will have any appreciable affect on engine cooling. I believe the reason to vent out the front is simply to reduce heat coming back on the operator, not an engine cooling requirement. After all, it's a free air arrangement, and it not possible for the solid grill cover to reduce airflow over the engine and not likely to cause recycling of hot air enough to matter. Here's an empirical example that you can try. Take a leaf blower. Turn it on. Hold the nozzle pointed at a wall, a couple feet away. Now move closer to the wall. The air flow from the blower will not be reduced until the nozzle is very close--a few inches--from the wall. Up until that point, the air simply is deflected sideways. And for engine cooling, the only thing you are interested in is airflow over the cylinder fins, and where it goes after that is irrelevant, as long as it's not recirculated.
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#20
11-10-2014, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
I can't count the times that different members here have asked questions, gotten advice and then wanted to ignore or argue about the advice they got. Those guys usually have a very low number of posts.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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