1512 a no go

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

I'd, too, would verify the pin is good before getting into anything else. Just as Sam Mac pointed out. I was curious, just how steep was that hill your tractor rolled down? I was thinking perhaps suction lines exposed to air or something unsettled from gravity orientation

Not debating, this is more of a note.

The suction line is at the very bottom of the trans. It would have to be almost completely out of oil, even if it was on an incline, before it could "suck air" via the suction line. (This is assuming no external leaks.) If the oil level is normal, the machine would have to be nearly vertical before it wouldn't be able to suck oil out of the reservoir.

[red56turbo]

I'd sure double check the pin. Spinning over by hand, there may be enough resistance to spin over the hydro. Does it have a disconnect clutch? Those diesels aren't the easiest to spin over by hand if it doesn't. You say the tractor pushed with little to no resistance? They have the auto release valves in them, but any I've pushed around in the shop in non running condition don't exactly push easy. There is a noticeable resistance.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Not debating, this is more of a note.

The suction line is at the very bottom of the trans. It would have to be almost completely out of oil, even if it was on an incline, before it could "suck air" via the suction line. (This is assuming no external leaks.) If the oil level is normal, the machine would have to be nearly vertical before it wouldn't be able to suck oil out of the reservoir.

You really like to pick on me, do you????

[cubs-n-bxrs]

I myself would start with a fluid and filter change. What kind of hyd oil filter is on it now. I have personally picked up a few hydros for cheap because PO says it won't move anymore or very slowly. Lot of people believe just a standard auto oil filter is good enough.

[Loader]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

I'd, too, would verify the pin is good before getting into anything else. Just as Sam Mac pointed out. I was curious, just how steep was that hill your tractor rolled down? I was thinking perhaps suction lines exposed to air or something unsettled from gravity orientation

I would guess 2-4 degrees. It's not a steep driveway. It probably drops no more than
three feet every 25 feet, but I have no idea how to figure angle from that.

[Loader]

Originally Posted by red56turbo

I'd sure double check the pin. Spinning over by hand, there may be enough resistance to spin over the hydro. Does it have a disconnect clutch? Those diesels aren't the easiest to spin over by hand if it doesn't. You say the tractor pushed with little to no resistance? They have the auto release valves in them, but any I've pushed around in the shop in non running condition don't exactly push easy. There is a noticeable resistance.

Exactly. Before there was a resistance if I tried to push it and it was easier to just pick up one wheel and let it spin backwards. Now I can just push it.

I can spin the shaft by hand and I can see the pump shaft turning.

I don't know about a disconnect clutch.

Now that you mention it, I should NOT be able to spin that shaft by hand if connected directly to the engine or I'd be turning the engine over! I don't think I was doing that.

Tomorrow will be a day of discovery.

[Loader]

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs

I myself would start with a fluid and filter change. What kind of hyd oil filter is on it now. I have personally picked up a few hydros for cheap because PO says it won't move anymore or very slowly. Lot of people believe just a standard auto oil filter is good enough.

I'm too chicken to try other stuff and only use the Cub Cadet filters and fluid from the local tractor shop.

[Loader]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

If this was my tractor I’d verify that the pump shaft is turning with the engine running before changing the pins. If the shaft is turning then something else is wrong. Possibilities include, plugged filter, plugged suction line, bad charge pump, sucking air at the suction line or charge pump seal, check valve, relief valve. If you have Hy-Tran in it maybe a glob of the waxy stuff it forms from water blocked or plugged the filter. You are sure it has enough oil in it. Just tossing out other possibilities for you to consider.

Yes, the entire shaft assembly was turning with the engine running. That's why I assumed I overheated and blew the pump but now I know from a previous post that there aren't clutches to overheat and burn up! (Thanks for the education, J-Mech!)

I did not consider a plugged filter or plugged line, so will check all that and I think I may just put fresh fluid in, seal it up, and try again.

I only run the Cub Cadet fluid in any of my Cubs. I don't know what the charge pump is, so will go look that up.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Loader

Exactly. Before there was a resistance if I tried to push it and it was easier to just pick up one wheel and let it spin backwards. Now I can just push it.

I can spin the shaft by hand and I can see the pump shaft turning.

I know we are beating this to death, but I just want to make sure we are all on the same page. Even though you can rotate it by hand and you see the pump shaft turning, doesn't mean that it will under load. You need to start the engine with the tunnel cover off, sit on the seat and move the hydro lever and make sure that the pump shaft continues to spin. If so, move on to the next test.

Originally Posted by Loader

I don't know about a disconnect clutch.

The 1512 had (from the factory) a disconnect clutch. It was a starting aid. It was not hooked to the clutch pedal. Basically, it is a centrifugal clutch. Once the engine starts and gets up to speed, then the shaft turns. As a note, it is possible that it may be the point of failure and not a spirol pin.

Originally Posted by Loader

Now that you mention it, I should NOT be able to spin that shaft by hand if connected directly to the engine or I'd be turning the engine over! I don't think I was doing that.

See above. It should spin free with the engine off. No, it will not turn the motor when you do.

[red56turbo]

Loader,
Do you have a camera handy? If so, snap a pic or two of the driveshaft so we can see what you've got going on. Sounds like some are getting frustrated with your questions. The disconnect clutch would be right in front of the hydro pump, the hydro cooling fan bolts to it. Even though they came from the factory with them, a PO could have removed it. But since you can spin the driveshaft by hand, it probably has one. Start the engine with the tunnel cover off and look at the driveshaft and hydro pump. Make sure everythings turning and looks correct. Pay close attention to the hydro pump to make sure it's turning with the tractor running. As stated before, the driveshaft turned by hand may still turn the hydro pump, even if the pin is broken. Then after the tractor is started, the RPM of the running tractor will not turn the driveshaft. The tractor went from working fine to nothing, just like that, so it has to be something fairly simple. Hang in there, we'll help you figure this out.