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  #11  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:48 PM
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Just looked at the Cub parts site. I used to own a 1210 so I picked that to look up. " 734-3004 Wheel Assy, Rear w/8-1/2 JA-12 Rim"

Looks like 8-1/2" wide to me.

This is in the tire section of parts sources.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2014, 08:05 PM
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Default My bad!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Just looked at the Cub parts site. I used to own a 1210 so I picked that to look up. " 734-3004 Wheel Assy, Rear w/8-1/2 JA-12 Rim"

Looks like 8-1/2" wide to me.

This is in the tire section of parts sources.
I was just looking at the decription and it cuts it off after the 8 on the 734-3013-0499 wheels.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2014, 08:19 PM
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I think the point is that for 23X10.5 -12" tires Cub in there infinite wisdom decided to use 8-1/2" wide wheels. Just my 2 cents but when I looked at this info I decided that if an 8-1/2" wheel was good for a 10.5 wide tire a 10-1/2" wheel would be good for a 26X12- 12" wide tire so that's the way I went. I'm happy with the results. I am not trying to convince any of you to do anything. I looked in the Mid West Super Cub catalog and see that they offer a 12" wide wheel for the puller guys. My guess is it gives a better contact patch for more traction. So to the OP if you want what came on a Super 8-1/2" wide was OEM. As far as I know anything wider would be aftermarket.
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2014, 08:39 PM
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Default You convinced me a long time ago.

If I am going to spend $300 or more on a couple tires, I don't want them to do this!
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2014, 06:29 PM
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Geoffrey

Got the 2182 back together with the 3 point and factory wheels. Now I understand why Cub built the wheel with only a 5/8" back space. If the wheel had any more back space the arms from the 3 point could contact the tire. It looks like I'm stuck using factory wheels or all of the additional width will have to be outboard. If I decide to go wider I'll probably take the rims to my buddy at the machine shop, have him stick them in the lathe and cut them in two, then roll a 2" wide filler and weld them back together. Tread width would be 2" more than my other Supers.
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2014, 06:34 PM
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Sam,
Xtreme offers a 10.5" rim with a custom offset for $10 more. He'll weld the center in wherever you want it.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Sam,
Xtreme offers a 10.5" rim with a custom offset for $10 more. He'll weld the center in wherever you want it.
Yep. I know that, I have 2 sets from Xtreme on my other Supers. At this point I'm just playing with possibilities. I'm thinking it would be cheap to just cut the wheels in 1/2 in the drop area, roll a 2" wide hoop and weld it all back together. Maybe a little ugly. Gotta run the numbers to see what is the best way to go.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2014, 10:11 PM
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Sam , If you have another set of wheels that you can cut up , it would be easier to cut the outside or inside of a donor wheel , including the rim bead , and weld it to the wheel you want to use after you cut it. There is a machinist here that does it all the time and charges $40.00 to do everything. He will even cut the center and change the offset included in the price.

You only have one weld around the wheel when you do it that way.

I bought a junk pulling Cub and when I took the back wheels/tires off of it they we're HEAVY , I thought they had fluid in them. When I got one tire off , someone had cut the wheel in the middle and used a thick wall piece of pipe to weld them back together , the wheel halves fit right inside the pipe. I think the piece of pipe was almost 11inches long.
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2014, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrewcub View Post
If I am going to spend $300 or more on a couple tires, I don't want them to do this!
Without 10 1/2" wheels that will be the result of 26x12x12" tires on a 8 1/2" wheel,bottom line.
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrell View Post
Sam , If you have another set of wheels that you can cut up , it would be easier to cut the outside or inside of a donor wheel , including the rim bead , and weld it to the wheel you want to use after you cut it. There is a machinist here that does it all the time and charges $40.00 to do everything. He will even cut the center and change the offset included in the price.

You only have one weld around the wheel when you do it that way.

I bought a junk pulling Cub and when I took the back wheels/tires off of it they we're HEAVY , I thought they had fluid in them. When I got one tire off , someone had cut the wheel in the middle and used a thick wall piece of pipe to weld them back together , the wheel halves fit right inside the pipe. I think the piece of pipe was almost 11inches long.
You could also buy a rim blank w/o center and cut it in half and add each half to your existing rims. As long as drilling a new valve stem hole in one half is doable.
Then your not chopping up another set of rims.
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