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  #11  
Old 02-16-2015, 12:10 PM
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Glad that worked for you! Good luck tomorrow!
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2015, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
I never tried this, but what if you remove the height adjustment cam on the side altogether? Just unscrew the knob all the way and take it out.
That really doesn't make it go much lower on a hydraulic lift.....


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Originally Posted by zimm17 View Post
I don't want to make the slot longer where the raising rod goes,
Do not do that.


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Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
I've got a stack of 3 or 4 of those hanging on my shop wall.
I'll have to remember that...... I'm missing a few.


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Originally Posted by snoel View Post
I'd be careful with that. Just be watchful, that the cylinder doesn't "bottom out" too hard.
You can't hurt a cylinder by bottoming it out.


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Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
I'd start with a new cutting edge.
That one looks to be about gone and soon you will be into the bolts (if not already) and the reinforcecment on the backside that they go through.
They can be flipped over. That one has not been used on the top side.....


Quote:
Originally Posted by zimm17 View Post
What do you mean it's an "82" attachment on the blade?
Just what he said. The lift is for the 82 series. It's a floating lift, thus the slot. Works great on manual lift machines. There is a lock that can be bolted on, that's what the two little holes are for.


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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
Extend the Lift Rod, or make a new one that is longer.
Best option!
My guess is, it's a rod for a 82 series.
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:14 PM
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Interesting that my lift bracket looks different than any of the pics in this thread: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23018

But since my bracket looks like it has new bolts holding it on, who knows where it came from. I'm guessing the "floating" slot will work just fine. I'll know for sure in the morning!

I also have my snow chains ready to go, but I'm hoping it does just fine with just the Tru-power AG tires. Again, it's an experiment. Worse case is I head back to the garage if I spin too much and put them on.
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  #14  
Old 02-16-2015, 01:45 PM
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Cutting edge looks pretty skinny on both upper and lower like it's already been flipped once. Check the back side, I'd bet you are riding on the bolts already.

Screw the shoes down some, and lock 'em (are they even there?) they are there so the cutting edge don't wear so much. I'd take 'em down below the edge about 3/16- 1/4", so the edge don't leave rust marks all over the sidewalks come spring/summer.
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2015, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Cutting edge looks pretty skinny on both upper and lower like it's already been flipped once. Check the back side, I'd bet you are riding on the bolts already.

Screw the shoes down some, and lock 'em (are they even there?) they are there so the cutting edge don't wear so much. I'd take 'em down below the edge about 3/16- 1/4", so the edge don't leave rust marks all over the sidewalks come spring/summer.
Thanks I'll check on the shoes. They're on there.
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  #16  
Old 02-16-2015, 03:19 PM
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You guys were right on. The nuts on the wear strip are hitting the ground and have a small flat spot. It looks like the strip has not been used on the top side, so after this storm I'll flip it over and use new nuts. For now I adjusted the shoes so the blade is 1/16"-1/8" off the ground.
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2015, 03:47 PM
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You should have some skids or "feet" that the blade should ride on as you are pushing snow to save the wear edge of the blade. I usually leave mine up about 1/2". I could not tell in your pictures if you have those on your blade or not, but you should. No harm in 1/2" or 1/4" of snow after your blade passes and it will save your edge. Do you have those skids on your blade?

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  #18  
Old 02-16-2015, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123 View Post
You should have some skids or "feet" that the blade should ride on as you are pushing snow to save the wear edge of the blade. I usually leave mine up about 1/2". I could not tell in your pictures if you have those on your blade or not, but you should. No harm in 1/2" or 1/4" of snow after your blade passes and it will save your edge. Do you have those skids on your blade?

Cub Cadet 123
Yes, read the last sentence of my last post. I have the "feet" that I called shoes. I lowered them down so the blade is off the ground 1/8".
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2015, 04:22 PM
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I just checked a couple of junk ones that I had replaced. If the original cutting edge is nearing 1-1/2" they re pretty much done for.

1 blade I took in on trade was so far into the reinforcement behind the blade proper that it will require some serious restoration. The bolt holes were worn 1/2 way through.
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  #20  
Old 02-16-2015, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
I just checked a couple of junk ones that I had replaced. If the original cutting edge is nearing 1-1/2" they re pretty much done for.

1 blade I took in on trade was so far into the reinforcement behind the blade proper that it will require some serious restoration. The bolt holes were worn 1/2 way through.
If they still hold bolts, don't worry about it. All my blades are wore like that. As long as you can bolt the wear edge on, they are fine.

Skid shoes are nice for gravel.... on hard surface, they wear out as fast as the cutting edge. They cost about the same, if not more.
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