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  #11  
Old 04-05-2010, 09:32 PM
murphycc
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What do you intend to run on your rear pto?

Scott
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2010, 09:37 PM
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bridgewatertek bridgewatertek is offline
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Don't know, just had a thought, you guys have those kind right?
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Jim Bridgewater, KD0FJO Osage, IA
1976 IH Cub Cadet 1650, 44A rotary mower deck, 42" snow blade, QA42A snow thrower, rear blade, cab

Well, that's out of date. Current count is 2 LT1050's, a 76, 1 2284, 1 2130, 1 2135, 1020, and 10 1250- 1650's, with decks, blades, snow throwers, and a Brinly plow
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:19 PM
murphycc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bridgewatertek View Post
Don't know, just had a thought, you guys have those kind right?
I just typed a loooong response that received a 'fatal error' and I ain't doin it again.

Yeah and it's a novetly unless it actually does something.

Your tractor will not handle a 300lbs load....just ain't happening. so in truth with all things being possible it ain't practical. Maybe a generator. And bear in mind that any load running off a pto shaft will need to be at least 20-24" to the rear of the rear axle. I have 100lbs and loaded front tires and my tiller still floats the front end and I have the 6" advantage of the Super.

Take a look around at the possibilities of rear attachments....they are not endless.

Scott
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:44 PM
murphycc
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Let me just add-

Befco is the only one that makes a tiller with a 540/2000rpm option and that pretty boy will set you back about $2900. Again in the 350lbs range and it will be about 30" behind the axle. Used ones are real hard to find but JD and others are out there.

Why so far behind axle? shaft lenght.

Take a look at JD and Bolens parts as they had front and rear pto options and the drive parts can be adapted.

There is an easier way to bring power to the rear besides hydro....but...take a look at IR parts as IR is a completely hyrdraulic tractor and the ran rear ptos.

Study study and search and study more....it's all out there....

Scott
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:17 AM
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Amigatec Amigatec is offline
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Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
Why not just run a hydraulic pump off the pulley on the flywheel end of the engine? (Now that I think about it, I can't remember if the WF tractors have that pulley...if not, you could get a drive cup from an older tractor and still be able to do this) You've still got your PTO clutch that way. I'm not convinced linear actuators are the best thing for a loader.

My wife is disabled and is in a wheelchair, we have a lift van for her, it uses linear actuators. We are both large people, and with both of us on the lift it doesn't have any problem lifting us both up. It is rated for 600lbs, and the both of us and the chair are at least 500lbs.

Also I plan to add a big deepcycle battery and box on the back to help counter balance it.
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Keep the Deck down and the Throttle open!!!
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:32 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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That wasn't my point. Yes, they can lift it, but will they last 30 years? I doubt it. Linear actuators are also slow compared to a hydraulic system. I also don't think the starter/generator is going to be able to keep up those. There's a reason why these loaders use hydraulics and not linear actuators.
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:01 PM
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bridgewatertek bridgewatertek is offline
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I was just throwing this out. I definately need a sleeve hitch or possibly a 3pt for the 1450.
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Jim Bridgewater, KD0FJO Osage, IA
1976 IH Cub Cadet 1650, 44A rotary mower deck, 42" snow blade, QA42A snow thrower, rear blade, cab

Well, that's out of date. Current count is 2 LT1050's, a 76, 1 2284, 1 2130, 1 2135, 1020, and 10 1250- 1650's, with decks, blades, snow throwers, and a Brinly plow
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2010, 03:05 PM
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Amigatec Amigatec is offline
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Buy the time you add up the price of the pump, cylinders, control valve, filter, and hoses, you would have well over $1000 in just the hyd system. I can buy 1000lb actuators for $250 a piece, only need 3. It only need to lift about 300 lbs.

All I'm wanting to do is use it around the yard. My van has 2 batteries in it and it runs the lift just fine. If nothing else I could use the S/G as just a starter and bolt on a 60 amp chevy alt to charge the battery.
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2011, 08:02 PM
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Rescue11 Rescue11 is offline
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Gottan idear for your rear PTO. Actually its just taken from the mtd pto. Grab a hold of an electric pto assembly off of a quiet line series tractor. Mount the PTO under the rear fender in the center at the top of the rear housing. There is a stub out from the back of the hydro pump that can power the electrically clutched pto. I am not certain what RPM the shaft is, gunna guess what ever the engine rpm is, but you will need to figure that out, do some math and figure out Rpm, i.e. 540 or 1000, needed at the point of attachment. Mount a sealed bearing pully at the center of the rear end housing using the existing bolts holding the plate on the rear end. I would also figure out a way to adjust the belt to keep it tight. Then find a belt to span the distance. The most time consuming thing, my opinion, would be finding a good way to attach the male pto stub to the pully. If you want to factor in safety or looks build a nice shroud around the belt and pully. Just my thoughts... hope it helps!

Trent
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2011, 11:06 PM
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inspectorudy inspectorudy is offline
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I live on Craig's list and know the price of good combination's of equipment like tractors and front end loaders. It becomes ridiculous to take something that was never meant to be and convert it to something that you want it to be. I built a front end loader on an old Simplicity tractor and it was a lot of fun. But by the time I finished it I realized that I would have been a lot better off to have bought a tractor that would do the work that I needed done and without the limitations of the home built FEL. Remember that if you use a tractor for a year to do a lot of work and then sell it for a slight loss you have "Rented" the equipment for a year and sold it where the loss is the rent you paid for the year. This could easily be less than a $1000 for a year of use. Think about the average FEL and how you would use it. There are times when you need to ram into a dirt lump or bust up a tree stump along with the digging. If you go for the light weight tractor that just barley is able to support a FEL then you have to give up on the things that it is not designed to do. There are three absolutes that you need for a good FEL to be efficient and they are: 4x4, foot operated tranny, and power steering. Anything less is a make do proposition and you the operator will have to deal with it with your own man power. If any of you have used a good FEL you know that a foot operated transmission is a necessity and to take our hand operated tranny stick is absurd. Sure it will work but it will not come close to being like a modern FEL. I do know that even after considering all of these things that we are unable to not do the absurd. It is in our nature to make things do what we want and reason be damned. If you want a PTO on a hydro go for it!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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