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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#12
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The VR top bracket I wire wheeled the back of that and the cast part of the grill that it bolts into, the pink ground wire is sandwiched between. The s/g I did the same thing to along with the other end of the pink wire that mounts to the dash. I did not however clean-up the paint on the 2 studs where the solenoid mounts. Could that be it?
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Mine: 122 with 38" Deck, 123 with 48" Deck, 1650 with 44" Deck, #1 Tiller, QA42 Snowthrower My Dad's: Red 382 Hydro, Red 482 Gear ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#13
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One of the first things to check, is do you have a good ground from the s/g to the frame then to the battery. If you have a VOM, see if you have power to the Arm. post on the s/g, when you turn the ign. to start. If no VOM, take a jumper wire from the ign. post on the solenoid and touch it to the + post of the battery. If the s/g turns, then it could be the ign. switch or the wiring to or from the ign. switch.
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Patience is the key to success . The difficult, I'll do today . The impossible, I'll do tomorrow
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#14
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#15
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do I need to clean the paint off the frame where the motor mounts also? Does the solenoid have an internal ground with that bracket?
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Mine: 122 with 38" Deck, 123 with 48" Deck, 1650 with 44" Deck, #1 Tiller, QA42 Snowthrower My Dad's: Red 382 Hydro, Red 482 Gear ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#16
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Well.... the S/G grounds through it's base, and the base grounds to the motor, which grounds to the frame. Either you need to make all these things have good connection, or run the battery ground strap to the base of the S/G. You could also use a heavy wire and ground the S/G to the frame. Your choice. Yes, the solenoid grounds at the base.
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#17
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Ok, I had Mike make an extra long negative battery lead (white) which goes from the negative post to the front mounting bolt that connects the s/g to the bracket. Is that correct? I read about it being a better ground in another post, so figured might as well have the harness made that way.
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Mine: 122 with 38" Deck, 123 with 48" Deck, 1650 with 44" Deck, #1 Tiller, QA42 Snowthrower My Dad's: Red 382 Hydro, Red 482 Gear ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#18
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Yeah, I saw that wire. Knew it wasn't OEM but wondered if Mike added that or what the deal was. That should be sufficient. I'd check the solenoid for ground.
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#19
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Sorry for all the questions, I like to be thorough. I appreciate all the help and when I get home tomorrow night I will clean the paint off behind the solenoid bracket and then try it and go from there. My dad also mentioned to check the markings on the back of the ignition switch to see if they match up with the wiring diagram since I bought the switch from auto parts store and not a cub dealer.
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Mine: 122 with 38" Deck, 123 with 48" Deck, 1650 with 44" Deck, #1 Tiller, QA42 Snowthrower My Dad's: Red 382 Hydro, Red 482 Gear ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#20
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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