Cub 1864 Ignition coils

[BassBlaster]

I currently have a thread about setting my cub on fire that has lead me to the same project. Just put my engine back in to and now its coming back out. Should be a snap now that Ive done it.

Part number is KH-24-584-45-S

Im probably gonna get mine on the bay. They are 40sum bucks with free shipping on there. If you find a better price, Id be interested.

If you stand in front of the engine and kind of bear hug it with your forearms kind of under the heads, you can lift it off the tractor and set it up on the bench by yourself. Its really not that bad at all. I set mine in a wheel barrow, wheeled it out into the driveway, set it of on the pavement to power wash it, put it back in the wheelbarrow and wheeled it back into the garage to be put on the bench.

[Rodster]

Thanks for the part number. That's what I found too but wanted to double check. I can't wait too long to get the coils (grass is growing after all the rain!) so might have to find some locally. Probably won't be as cheap as ebay tho'

I didn't think the engine was that heavy and considered the bear hug method but opted for the using the tractor frame as a bench.

Thanks....

[BassBlaster]

Yeah, I hear ya on the growing grass. I may have to call a buddy to bring over his big Kubota and knock this down for me when I finally have a running tractor.

[Rodster]

I had to resort to push mowing when my tractor died!

Figured it's no different than going to the gym!

[CubDieselFan]

Originally Posted by Rodster

I didn't think the engine was that heavy and considered the bear hug method but opted for the using the tractor frame as a bench.

Thanks....

I did something similar. I disconnected everything and then pulled the engine with a come-a-long. Then I rotated it and sat it down on a board and used the frame as a workbench.

[Rodster]

Mission accomplished! Found two coils locally and got them installed this afternoon. Fired up the tractor and it's running on two cylinders.

The test will be tomorrow when I start mowing. (After I sharpen the blades and clean the deck while I have it off.)

Doing the job once, I can see it wouldn't take nearly as long the second time. It's really not that big of a job. A lot of my time was spent cleaning up, re-taping wires, etc.

I was at a dealership today and checked out the new Cubs. Probably nice units but lots of plastic and $5400 to replace my set up.

Makes repairing the 1864 seem much more worthwhile!!

Thanks for the advice and suggestions.

[BassBlaster]

Looks good! I got mine ordered today from the bay for $44 each. Should arrive Fri.

Did you use feeler gauges for the clearance setting? Ive never messed with coils before and everything Ive read said to use a business card to set the clearance. The manual says clearance should be .011-.013. I dont know how thick card stock is but that dosnt seem like the proper way to do it.

[Rodster]

I was going to order from ebay but with the grass growing so fast I figured I better get on it. I paid $62 each and even though it was more expensive than ebay, I was glad to support the local small engine guy who had them in stock!

As far as setting the air gap, I used a feeler gauge...kind of. I wanted something that would fit under the whole coil so when it sat against the magnet I could simply tighten the screws.

Using a mic, I found a piece of glossy junk mail that was close, then added a piece of blue painters tape to get it to just over .013".

Attached the coil spaced away from the magnet, inserted my 'gauge' and loosened the screws. It clicked against the magnet, I tighten the screws and turned the flywheel to remove the 'gauge' and then checked with a real feeler gauge.

It was right around .012.

I did notice for some reason?? the air gap on the second coils got smaller as I tightened the screw so I had to increase the thickness of my gauge slightly to compensate.

How ever you do it, I would definitely check it with a feeler gauge.

[Ikea6e]

A tip you may want to consider. When I have one of these apart I split (or nearly split, leave a small portion at the top and bottom attached) the blower housing. Lower part of the heat shield also.

If you need to remove the blower housing to clean fins etc. you can remove the heat shield and blower housing easily.

Take Care, Ike

[CubDieselFan]

In case you do not have a service manual, here is what it says:



Install Ignition Modules
1. Rotate flywheel to position magnet away from
ignition module bosses.

2. On engines equipped with SMART-SPARK™ both
modules are installed with tabs out.
On engines not equipped with SMART-SPARK™
modules are installed with spark plug lead wire from
module always away from cylinder. On cylinder 1,
single kill tab should be towards you. On cylinder 2,
single kill tab should be away from you (in).

3. Install each ignition module to crankcase bosses
with screws (hex fl ange or allen head, based on
model). Slide modules up as far away from fl ywheel
as possible and snug screws to hold them in
position.

4. Rotate flywheel to position magnet directly under
one ignition module.

5. Insert a 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) fl at feeler gauge
between magnet and ignition module. Loosen
screws enough to allow magnet to pull module down
against feeler gauge.

6. Torque screws to 4.0-6.2 N·m (35-55 in. lb.).

7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 for other ignition module.

8. Rotate flywheel back and forth checking for
clearance between magnet and ignition modules.
Make sure magnet does not strike modules. Check
gap with a feeler gauge and readjust if necessary.
Final air gap: 0.280/0.330 mm (0.011/0.013 in.).